Laganas Beach
12. August 2020
Milatos Cave
6. August 2021Temple of Segesta: Jewel of the ancient world
The Temple of Segesta is one of the most important archaeological sites in western Sicily. Just a 35-minute drive from Trapani, it offers a glimpse into the ancient world of the Elymians — a mysterious people who lived in the western part of the island before the arrival of the Greeks and Romans. The grand Doric temple, attributed to them, still stands in striking solitude among rolling green hills.
According to ancient legend, the Elymians were descendants of the Trojans who fled their ruined homeland after the fall of Troy. Some versions say they were led by the hero Aeneas or his ally Elymos, from whom they took their name. After arriving in western Sicily, they founded cities like Segesta, Erice, and Entella. This story carried political weight in antiquity — since the Romans also traced their origins to Troy, they considered the Elymians distant kin. That’s one reason Segesta often stood as an ally of Rome, unlike many other Sicilian cities.

Parking at the Temple of Segesta
Parking is about 1.5 km from the entrance. From there, it’s an easy uphill walk—takes around 20 minutes. If you don’t feel like walking, there’s a shuttle bus that’ll drop you off right near the temple. At the gate, you get a simple map with highlights of the main sights. And just like before, the kids grabbed it with excitement and proudly took over the navigating.
After getting off the shuttle, we headed first to the theater — the farthest point in the area. The views alone were worth it. On one side, just greenery, hills, and barely a trace of civilization. On the other, a sweeping look at the highway bridge stretching between Trapani and Palermo. That contrast made the spot feel both timeless and strangely connected to the present.

Ancient theater – with a view that will take your breath away
When we reached the theater, we were genuinely surprised. Unlike the one in Taormina, this one has kept much of its original form. Built by the Elymians around the 3rd century BC, it stands out for its unusual orientation — facing north, while most ancient theaters typically face south or southeast.
That’s exactly what made the theater so special — spectators didn’t just watch the actors, they also took in the landscape behind them, like a living backdrop. Originally, the cavea had around 63 rows, but today only about 20 remain. Even so, the setting still steals the show.

We sat for a while at the top edge of the seating, quietly watching and imagining a performance that might have taken place here 2,300 years ago. If you close your eyes, there’s still a sense of majesty and dignity in the air — like if the stones remember.
According to archaeologists, the Elymians managed to fit up to 4,000 spectators here. Hard to imagine — it felt so small. The kids immediately tested the acoustics, and even after all these centuries, the sound carried perfectly.
From the theater, we continued on foot downhill — passing scattered ruins and remnants of the old city. But first, we made a short climb to check out the medieval castle we hadn’t expected to find. The signage along the way was excellent, so we always knew what we were looking at and picked up bits of history as we went.

Medieval castle – silent guardian of the hill
Just above the theater rises a medieval castle, built on the site of an older acropolis. From a distance, it looks rather modest. Unlike the grand fortifications in Erice or other medieval towns, there are no preserved towers or battlements waiting here. Just quiet ruins blending into the hillside.
What’s left of the castle today are just walls, foundations, and fragments of stone rising from tall grass on a rocky outcrop. The whole place feels like a quiet witness to a time when the ancient settlement made one last attempt to hold strategic value in the medieval world.

Even though not much remains, the place has a special atmosphere. The views from the cliff are breathtaking — distant hills, green valleys, and the coastline stretching far into the horizon. Everything around feels still and deserted, as if time itself paused here.
Almost nothing remains of the former agora. Just a few scattered column fragments that hint at its past grandeur. As you walk through, these silent pieces of stone are like echoes of a once-bustling public space, now reclaimed by time and nature.

The Doric Temple – unfinished yet magnificent
Temple of Segesta is one of the best-preserved monuments of antiquity. It stands completely alone, surrounded by green hills, without any modern distractions. Its 36 Doric columns are nearly untouched and still hold their form, as if the builders had just finished. The temples in Agrigento’s Valle dei Templi felt just as striking. Still, we were glad to have seen both sites — each had a very different atmosphere.

Temple of Segesta was never finished
Look closer and you’ll notice — the temple was never actually finished. There’s no roof, no inner walls, no decoration. The columns weren’t fully smoothed, and on some of them, you can still spot the small stone knobs that were used to lift them into place during construction. It’s like the builders just stepped away mid-task and never came back.
The Elymians built the temple around 420 BC. It stretches 61 meters in length and 26 meters in width. Making it one of the largest ancient temples outside of Greece. Even though it was never completed, its sheer size still leaves a strong impression.

To this day, archaeologists still debate why Segesta became the main city of the Elymians. And why they chose to build such a grand temple here without dedicating it to any deity. Almost every standing temple from antiquity had a patron god or goddess. The Doric temple at Segesta, though, stands without one.
Walking around the temple felt like stepping straight into antiquity. We imagined what it might have looked like in its prime. How it was decorated, what colors or statues might have filled the space. Its beauty and scale brought to mind the temples in Athens — like the Hephaestus Temple in the Agora, or even the famous Parthenon itself.
We made it all the way to the far side — past where most tourists turn back and were rewarded with a stunning view. The temple stood there like a silent guardian of the surrounding hills. All around, nothing but nature.

Practical information
🚗 By car, it takes about 35 minutes to reach Segesta from Trapani via the A29 highway toward Palermo. If you’re coming from Palermo, the drive is closer to an hour. The exit for Segesta is clearly marked, so even without GPS, it’s easy to find your way.
🅿️ The parking lot is located about 1.5 kilometers from the entrance to the archaeological zone.
🎟️ During our visit, the entrance fee was 6€ per adult. Children entered for free. The shuttle bus had separate pricing — 1.50€ one way or 3€ for a round trip. At the entrance, we received a simple map of the archaeological site with basic information.
⏰ Plan at least 1 to 1.5 hours to explore the entire site. This includes the temple, the ancient theater, the medieval castle, and the scattered ruins of the former city. We spent about an hour there ourselves, helped by the shuttle bus that took us part of the way up to the theater.
🕒 During the summer season, the archaeological zone is open daily from 9:00 to 19:00, with the last entry at 18:00. Late afternoon is the perfect time to visit. The sunlight at that hour bathes the temple and the valley below in warm golden tones, creating an almost magical atmosphere. Compared to the midday heat, the air is cooler, the crowds thinner, and the whole place feels calmer — making it much easier to take it all in.
🏞️ If you’ve got a full day to spare, it’s worth pairing Segesta with a trip to Riserva Naturale dello Zingaro. From the temple, it’s about a 40-minute drive north, following the road past Castellammare del Golfo.
