Laganas Beach
12. August 2020
Milatos Cave
6. August 2021
Riserva Naturale Orientata dello Zingaro: beautiful beaches
If you’re staying in Trapani and craving beautiful, secluded beaches, head to the Riserva Naturale Orientata dello Zingaro.
Even the drive itself was an experience. Besides the views, we got a little surprise. On the narrow road to the eastern entrance of the reserve, we had to yield to a group of calm cows who had clearly decided the asphalt belonged to them that day. Coming by car from Palermo takes about 1.5 hours, while it’s around 50 minutes from Trapani. We recommend arriving as early in the morning as possible, when the parking lot at the entrance is still free. Parking is easy and right in front of the reserve gate.
Entrance to the Riserva Naturale dello Zingaro
You pay a symbolic entrance fee at the gate (currently 5€ per person) and set off on an unforgettable hike. They’ll also give you a map showing the various beaches and hiking trails. Chiara took charge of navigation and refused to share the map with anyone — she was absolutely loving it.
From the very first step, we were glad we’d decided to visit Zingaro. As soon as we entered, nature wrapped around us — green hills rising on one side, while the turquoise sea stretched out on the other. Although the path is dusty, it’s well-trodden and easy to follow, which makes it ideal even for families with kids.
The first stretch leads past palm trees, and there’s even a railing. But that disappears quickly, and within minutes, there’s no trace of civilization left. Not even a signal!
Cala Tonnarella dell’Uzzo
Just a few minutes from the eastern entrance, we reached the first beach — Cala Tonnarella dell’Uzzo. It’s the largest and most visited beach in the entire reserve. A comfortable path leads to it, with steps descending between the rocks.
Although it’s very close to the entrance, it retains its natural charm. The pebbled shore, turquoise water, and green hills form an ideal setting for relaxation. Visitors will find crystal-clear water and an excellent spot for swimming and snorkeling. Since the shore slopes steeply into the sea, it’s better suited for swimming than wading. However, the calm surface still makes it safe for children.
Since the beach was tiny, it filled up quickly, so we decided to keep going and try our luck at the next one. Surprisingly, the kids didn’t complain — they just kept walking without a fuss.
Cala dell’Uzzo
About fifteen minutes later, we arrived at another beach — Cala dell’Uzzo. It lies just a short walk from the well-known Grotta dell’Uzzo, one of Sicily’s most important archaeological sites. This beach felt much more peaceful. Wild nature stretched out around us, the sea shifted from deep blue to emerald green, and tiny fish darted between the rocks.
Just a few strokes into the water, we realized how steep the shore really was — perfect for a proper swim. The kids kept searching for fish, and even though the underwater world wasn’t exactly bursting with color, they were totally into it. We ended up spending the most time on this beach, but curiosity eventually nudged us forward, eager to see what else Zingaro had waiting.
Grotta dell’Uzzo
Just a few minutes’ walk above Cala dell’Uzzo sits one of the reserve’s most significant natural and historical sites — Grotta dell’Uzzo. This vast cave sheltered prehistoric people over 10,000 years ago and stands among the first places in Italy where humans began transitioning from hunting and gathering to agriculture.
A short path of stone steps leads up to the cave, and the view from its mouth is truly striking. Shimmering sea below, hills rising in the distance, and a deep, enveloping silence all around. The entrance itself feels grand, with a wide opening and high natural arches forming a shelter. Inside, the cool air offers welcome relief on hot days. Not much remains of the cave’s interior, but it’s still worth the quick detour from the beach. As the walk takes less than five minutes.
Cala Marinella
Roughly twenty minutes later, we reached a quieter spot — Cala Marinella. It’s smaller, yet far less crowded than Uzzo. Getting there involves a steep staircase, and once you arrive, you’ll find more of a tiny cove than a full beach.
Smooth pebbles and clear water made this spot tempting for a swim or a bit of snorkeling. The entry into the sea was a bit rocky, though still manageable. We didn’t find the beach quite as charming. Uzzo had left a stronger impression. But the views along the way more than made up for it.
Mini beaches along the way
The kids weren’t up for more hiking, so we turned back toward Cala dell’Uzzo. Or at least, that was the plan — until we stumbled upon a tiny beach nearby. Along the trail, there are several hidden coves, reachable by narrow paths winding through the bushes. Many have rocky entries, but if you’re after privacy, you can easily claim one as your own. The water access wasn’t perfect, yet the place was much quieter, and the kids really liked it.
After several hours of swimming, the kids had gone through the last of the snacks and were still hungry wolves, so we decided it was time to head back. One final moment to soak in the nature around us, and one last look at the cacti standing watch over the sea.
San Vito lo Capo
If time and energy allow after visiting Zingaro, a few kilometers from the eastern entrance lies the popular beach of San Vito lo Capo. It stands in stark contrast to the untamed reserve — a long sandy stretch with a gentle entry into the sea, surrounded by restaurants, bars, and full beach amenities. While undeniably beautiful, it becomes overwhelmingly crowded in the summer months from June to September, even on weekdays.
What to keep in mind in Zingaro reserve
Even though Riserva Naturale dello Zingaro ranks among the most beautiful spots in western Sicily, a visit here calls for a bit of preparation:
💧 No food stalls or restaurants can be found anywhere in the reserve, so it’s essential to bring enough water and something to eat. Especially on hot days, a multi-hour hike without supplies can be tough. The map you receive at the entrance marks the drinking water points. Outside the entry areas, there are only two, both near the cave.
🥿 Most beaches here don’t have gentle sandy entries. Water shoes come in handy. There’s no avoiding the rocks.
🚶 There are two main entrances to the reserve. One from the east (southern entrance near Scopello) and one from the west (northern entrance near San Vito lo Capo). A walking trail connects them, stretching about 7 kilometers. Depending on how many beach stops you make, it takes around 2 to 3 hours to walk one way.
🚗 If you plan to walk the trail in just one direction, you’ll need to arrange your own transport. There are no buses or taxis waiting at either entrance. That’s why most visitors choose a round-trip route: they enter through one gate, visit a few beaches, then return the same way.
🛑 Don’t expect to find traces of the modern world here. No toilets, no trash bins, no shops. Not even a phone signal.
Final tips
🚗 By car, it takes about 1.5 hours from Palermo and around 50 minutes from Trapani. It’s worth setting off early to secure a parking spot near the entrance. And if you’re up for more exploring, you can combine the visit with a stop at the Segesta Temple — it’s not far and makes for a great addition to the day.
🏖 San Vito lo Capo lies outside the reserve, but if you’re craving a sandy beach, this is the place to go. Just be warned — if you don’t arrive early, all the sunbeds are usually taken, and often there’s not even a free spot left on the sand. Chances are, you won’t stay long.
