Laganas Beach
12. August 2020
Milatos Cave
6. August 2021
Pineta di Grotta Grattara – A quiet treasure in the mountains
If you’re looking for a quiet escape from the beaches, crowds, and buzz of Cefalù, a trip to Grotta Grattara near the village of Gratteri is just the thing. Back home, I’d stumbled across a few photos on Google Maps while searching for hidden gems in the area — but there was hardly any info to go on. We had no idea how long the trail would be or what challenges might lie ahead. The journey turned out to be a thrill, and the cave itself felt like balm for the soul. Gorgeous nature, even better views. You’ll fall in love with this place.
How to get there and what definitely not to do
Grotta Grattara is a natural cave located about 300 meters from the village of Gratteri, nestled at the foot of Pizzo di Pilo at over 1,000 meters above sea level.
We set off from Cefalù by car, and the trip took just over half an hour. Along the way, we came across a few horses and stopped for a short break. The kids were thrilled.
We simply plugged Gratteri into Google Maps and set off without a second thought. Only later did we realize what a mistake that was. The navigation led us straight into the heart of the village. Which is an area full of narrow alleys, steep climbs, and dead ends. At one point, we found ourselves facing a staircase, forced to reverse between stone walls. The kids were crying, we were completely stressed out — but thankfully, some locals came to our rescue.
If you’re planning a visit, skip the town center and take Via Pio — the main bypass road that leads you straight to the entrance of the pine forest.
At the start of the trail, there’s a small wooden hut, perhaps once a souvenir shop or ticket booth and beside it, a lovely little parking area for a handful of cars. When we visited, it was completely empty.
A short and easy walk through the forest
The entire walk to the cave is a delight. It takes about 15 minutes and winds through a pine forest that offers welcome shade — especially in the summer months. As you move deeper into the woods, the view slowly begins to open up, revealing mist-covered mountains rising in the distance.
Moments later, the split rock came into view — the one that had caught my eye so strongly before. In person, the place was even more beautiful than in the photos, and we couldn’t wait to explore every corner of it.
As we got closer, we realized there wasn’t just one opening — but two. Up close, the rock felt far more massive than it had from a distance, and the path continued on beyond it.
Grotta Grattara
We finally reached Grotta Grattara. Its entrance is wide and gently arched, framed by a natural rock overhang that wraps around the cave like a shelter carved by time. When we turned to look back, the entire village of Gratteri and the surrounding hills unfolded before us. The kids, full of curiosity, urged us onward — eager to see where the path might lead next. So we followed, slowly and with growing anticipation.
Inside, we found all kinds of formations draped in green moss, still catching the last golden rays of sunlight.
We climbed the steps a little higher, curious to see what might be waiting. At first, we thought we’d found nothing — just an opening. Only later did we realize it was actually the highlight of the entire cave 😊.
In the 17th century, historian Passafiume described a stone formation at the heart of the cave — a hollow roughly 4.8 meters high and 3 meters wide, shaped over millennia by the slow, steady drip of water. It was believed to be a sacred spring, revered for its purifying and healing powers.
Views that will capture your heart
Even though we’d already seen sweeping views on the way to the cave, they continued to amaze us once we reached the top. And it wasn’t just the scenery — the entire rock felt majestic and almost magical. For a while, we sat down in the grass, soaking in the silence and the setting. There was no one else around — just us and the Sicilian landscape.
One peak in particular caught our eye — rising above the clouds with such presence that the kids were convinced it was Etna. And honestly, it did look the part. Towering and volcanic in shape, it stood there like a sentinel. But something didn’t quite add up. Etna should’ve been much farther away. So we started digging, curious to know what range we were actually looking at. Only later did we learn it was the Madonie massif — a sprawling mountain range that forms part of the Parco delle Madonie.
Even though the journey didn’t start off smoothly, it gave us a lifelong memory of a magical place — Grotta Grattara, without a doubt.
Practical information for visiting Grotta Grattara
🚗 From Cefalù, the drive takes about 35 minutes. If you’re coming from Palermo, expect around 1 hour and 20. Just enter “Grotta Grattara” or “Parcheggio Grotta Grattara” into your GPS — but be careful not to let Google Maps steer you straight into the narrow heart of Gratteri village.
🎟 Admission: Grotta Grattara is freely accessible, and entry is completely free.
🕒 How much time to set aside: The walk from the parking area to the cave takes about 15 minutes one way. With time to explore, relax, and take in the views, you’ll be perfectly fine with 1 to 1.5 hours. If you’re planning a picnic or simply want to sit quietly and soak in the atmosphere, feel free to linger longer.
💧 Be sure to bring water with you. There’s no café, kiosk, or shop near the cave, so pack a bottle and maybe a few snacks. Especially in the summer months, you’ll be glad you did.
🗺 What to pair the trip with: This short hike pairs beautifully with a visit to Cefalù, where you can unwind on the beach or wander through the historic center after your walk. If you’d rather stay immersed in nature, consider a trip to the Gole di Tiberio — a nearby canyon with river excursions that offer a completely different kind of adventure.
