Trapani
31. January 2021
Erice
31. January 2021
The Aegadian Islands of Favignana and Levanzo
If you have extra time in Trapani, be sure not to miss a boat trip to the nearby Aegadian Islands — Marettimo, Favignana, and Levanzo. We had originally planned to head to Marettimo, but the weather didn’t cooperate and the trip was canceled. So, we quickly pivoted to Plan B. To take a cruise to Favignana and Levanzo, two stunning gems of the Egadi archipelago. If you don’t feel like joining an organized tour, you can always hop on a ferry to any of the islands. In our case, though, the price was roughly the same as a guided trip. And the excursion was conveniently arranged by our accommodation.
On the way to Favignana and encounter with dolphins
We were pleasantly surprised by how few people were boarding the boat. Expecting a packed deck, we instead found ourselves among just forty passengers on a spacious vessel. Everyone had plenty of room, and many even stretched out to soak up the morning sun.
A relaxed mood settled over the deck as anticipation for a day at sea grew. As we pulled away from the harbor, Trapani slowly faded into the distance, giving way to the endless expanse of turquoise sea ahead.
While sailing toward Favignana, we spotted a small pod of dolphins in the distance. As they gracefully gliding across the surface and instantly bringing wide smiles to our faces. The journey lasted around 40 minutes. As we drew closer, the island began to unveil its charm, starting with the turquoise waters and sea caves near Cala Rossa.
Bike ride to Lido Burrone Beach
Our first stop was the island of Favignana. As soon as we arrived, we rented bikes at the harbor for €7 each — a perfect way to explore the island. With its flat terrain, Favignana is easy to cycle around, even if you’re not particularly sporty. Our destination was Lido Burrone, a beautiful, wide beach with soft sand and an incredible spectrum of blue hues. The view took our breath away. Even from a distance, the sea dazzled us with its shades of turquoise, azure, and deep blue. All blending together like an artist’s palette.
Next to the sandy beach, there was a wilder, rocky one — completely deserted. We didn’t yet know why, and enchanted by the beauty, we didn’t stop to wonder why no one was swimming there.
The kids couldn’t wait to get in the water and jumped in right away. Surprisingly, it was colder than the beaches in southern Sicily. That didn’t stop them, though— they started chasing each other around. And just like that, the beach fun came to an end.
The dark side of Lido Burrone
Not even a minute later, the kids came rushing out of the water — it was teeming with jellyfish. Thousands of them, in fact. Beautiful and pink, but with a fierce sting. That’s when we noticed all the local kids had nets and were scooping them up. Clearly, these jellyfish are nothing unusual around here
The second downside was the number of people. By 10:00 a.m., the beach was already completely packed. There was no space left to settle in. So we stayed on the rocks next to the sandy part, but the kids couldn’t use the sand to play at all. Not a single patch was free of towels. Favignana is the most popular of the islands, and maybe that’s why we hadn’t planned to come here in the first place. Sadly, it seems that all turquoise coves in Europe share one thing in common: crowds of tourists.
Let’s go to Cala Rossa
After a relaxing break at Lido Burrone, we returned to the harbor where our boat was already waiting, and continued on toward Cala Rossa — one of Favignana’s most iconic coves. The first thing we saw were the caves lining one side of the bay, looking like the rock had been pierced through and through.
We lingered a bit longer, taking in the coastline, but the shifting color of the sea kept pulling us in. The deep blue gave way to a radiant azure, and the kids lit up with excitement.
We passed a few smaller beaches that were reachable by bike, but unfortunately, none of them had sand. Just rocks you had to jump from to get into the sea. By this point, it was clear that going with an organized tour had been the best choice. Being on Favignana with kids would’ve meant renting a boat anyway, since the island’s shoreline just wasn’t safe or suitable for them.
Cala Rosa
Ironically, Cala Rossa didn’t impress us at all. While it looks idyllic in photos, the reality is much more about rocks than sand. Seeing people sprawled out on the stone and access to the water only via the rocks made us even more grateful we’d ended up coming by boat.
We got to enjoy the stunning sea and views without having to curse at sharp rocks. This beach really isn’t suited for kids. It’s exactly the kind of place where, as a parent, you’re constantly on edge, knowing that one wrong step could lead to an injury.
There was no one else around! Just us, the seagulls, and a few curious fish drawn in by the crumbs tossed overboard by the crew.
The kids couldn’t wait to dive in. They quickly put on their goggles, grabbed their snorkels, and stood ready at the edge of the boat. Since they hadn’t swum at Lido Burrone, they were among the first in the water. But after just a short while, they spotted jellyfish again. And just as quickly, changed their minds. Martin stayed in a bit longer while the rest of us soaked up the sun on the boat.
Levanzo Island and its peaceful atmosphere
Next, we headed toward the second island, Levanzo. Katya took a nap on the boat, since the ride took about 30 minutes. The views along the way were stunning. Just like Favignana, Levanzo’s coastline is dotted with caves. Our favorite was the one shaped like a heart. If we’d had the chance, we would’ve gone in to explore it right away.
We were greeted at the harbor by small white houses nestled beneath the mountains. We had no idea what to expect from the island. But so far, we were pleasantly surprised.
Cala Cold Beach
After getting off the boat, we set out to find a nice beach where we could settle in. We had about an hour, so we headed to Cala Cold Beach. The walk there was short and truly scenic. As the sea kept showing off its shifting shades. Unfortunately, the beach wasn’t really a beach at all — just rocks. Still, we gave it a try and went in for a quick dip. That’s when the kids spotted jellyfish again, and one even stung me. That was probably the last straw. We gave up on swimming altogether and went for a stroll around the harbor instead.
The town felt like it had stepped right out of a postcard. With its narrow alleyways, fishing boats gently swaying on the waves, and a soothing calm that pulled you in instantly. In the harbor, the sea shimmered with every imaginable shade of blue.
As the sun slowly began to set, the sea started to shimmer, casting a glow that gave the whole moment an unforgettable atmosphere. Even though we barely got to swim during the trip, we were still glad we’d gone for it.
Tips for Favignana and Levanzo
What you should keep in mind:
Jellyfish in the sea
Before booking a tour or ferry, make sure to check whether jellyfish are present near the islands. If there are many, consider postponing the trip by a few days. Their presence is seasonal and can vary.
🥿 Water shoes: Most beaches on the islands have rocky access to the sea. To protect your feet, water shoes are highly recommended—especially at Cala Rossa or on Levanzo.
🥪 Limited food options: Water is available on the boat, but food choices at the ports are very limited. Bring a snack or something light for lunch.
🚤 Organized tour vs. ferry
If you’re deciding between a tour and a ferry, here are approximate prices:
- 🛥️ Organized tour to Favignana and Levanzo:
approx. 45–55€ / adult
approx. 30€ / child
(includes boat, stops, swimming from the boat, sometimes a simple lunch) - ⛴️ One-way ferry Trapani – Favignana / Levanzo:
approx. 13–15€ / person (each way)
→ round trip approx. 26–30€ / person - You’ll need to add the cost of bike rental for both options (around €7 per person) per day on Favignana.
👨👩👧👦 If you’re traveling with kids or just want to relax, a tour boat is the better choice. No need to worry about your child slipping on rocks — you can simply enjoy swimming.
