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8. November 2024Dettifoss Waterfall
10. November 2024Hverir – Colourful geothermal landscape
Hverir, located near Lake Mývatn in northern Iceland, feels like a place from another planet. It’s renowned for its bubbling mud springs, rising steam, and the distinct smell of sulphur, signaling that you’ve entered an active geothermal field. Moreover, a colourful landscape, straight out of a storybook, awaits you. Strange as it may seem, it’s one of the most fascinating places to visit in Iceland.
How did this place come to be?
Hverir is one of Iceland’s most active geothermal areas. For thousands of years, hot magma rising from beneath the earth’s surface has shaped the landscape. This heat has caused the underground water to turn into steam, which escapes through cracks in the earth. As the steam rises, different minerals accumulate around these spots, turning the soil into vibrant colours.
Hverir is like from another planet
When you arrive in Hverir, the landscape immediately captivates you with its vibrant colours. Here the land is coloured in shades of orange, yellow, red and brown. These colours are due to the high content of minerals, especially sulphur and iron, which react with the hot water in the ground.
After a few steps, you will find yourself at the beautiful blue lakes. Some of them are light blue like the waters in Myvatn or Blue Lagoon, others are dark blue. The dark ones are bubbling and you are just waiting for the geyser to burst out of them. Unfortunately, you won’t see that here. These pools are formed by hot water richly saturated with minerals, especially sulphur. It is the minerals that give the water its various shades from pale yellow to soft blue.
However, these ponds are very hot (water temperatures can reach 80-100 °C), so do not go near them. Due to their constant activity and the movement of the soil around them, they can be unpredictable, so it is essential to stick to marked trails.
Steam vapours are everywhere
When you walk, you feel as if steam is pouring down on you from all sides. And it’s actually true.
Cracked craters cover the ground, leaking a lot of steam that smells extremely of sulphur. Since steam is everywhere, expect that you will have to walk through it. Some of the clouds are very thick and I recommend you plug your nose. It smells really awful.
In addition, you will find several fumaroles. They act as “smoking chimneys” of the earth – steam constantly rises from the top of the towers, mixing with hot gases such as carbon dioxide or hydrogen sulphide. Their surface is rough and stained yellow, orange or brownish. If you get close to them, you will feel radiant heat and an intense smell of sulphur.
They appear as small stone towers with a thick plume of smoke coming out of them. Like goblin houses and their chimneys. Don’t be tempted by their beauty. The steam is extremely hot, and if you try to touch it, you will burn yourself. Even so, we were both drawn in and our hands ached afterwards
What to be careful of? ⚠️
The path in Hverir is very well signposted, but remember to stay on the marked paths. Be aware that the ground outside of them can be unstable and the surface temperature often exceeds 100°C. Sulfuric fumes are intense, so if you have a sensitive nose, you may need a scarf or face mask.
Also, be cautious of the mud. In some areas, it’s quite thin, and stepping on it can feel like quicksand, causing your foot to sink deeper. Unfortunately, it can be difficult to remove from your shoes. Therefore, it’s advisable to wear proper footwear if you plan to venture off the trail toward the mountains.
Unique place
Walking through this inhospitable but fascinating landscape will make you feel like you’re on another planet. Rising steam, the sounds of bubbling mud, bluish pools and the smell of sulphur create an experience unlike any other in Iceland. We have visited several geothermal areas on our wanderings around Iceland and Hverir was clearly the best. However, it was quite rivaled by Seltún. This one was completely different and we are glad we didn’t miss any of them.
How to get here?
Hverir is located near Lake Mývatn. From the Ring Road, turn onto a side road that will take you directly to the car park. The road is one of the well-maintained ones, so you can use it all year round. And the parking fee is the typical 1000 ISK.
While you’re in the area, don’t miss Krafla, the Mývatn Baths or Dimmuborgir Lava Fields, or the nearby Goðafoss or Dettifoss waterfalls.