Boiling lake

Hike to Boiling Lake: Journey into the depths of the volcano

Boiling Lake isn’t just one of Dominica’s greatest attractions — it’s a testament to the raw power of nature.
Hidden in the heart of Morne Trois Pitons National Park, this constantly boiling lake is the second-largest of its kind in the world. But reaching it is no easy feat. Unlike other natural wonders on the island, Boiling Lake demands determination, endurance, and a solid dose of courage.

Embarking on the journey to Boiling Lake means committing to an all-day trek. With elevation gains reaching 2,400 meters, at least according to our watches, the challenge becomes evident early on.
As the path unfolds, the landscape undergoes remarkable transformations, making it feel like traveling through multiple countries in a single hike. From dense forests to barren, steaming terrain, each section presents a new adventure. Eventually, the realization sets in — the destination is only part of the reward, while the journey itself becomes just as meaningful.
Without a doubt, this hike leaves a lasting impression, etched into memory for a lifetime.

Hike starts in the morning

Boiling Lake is one of the few hikes where going solo is strongly discouraged. Hiring a local guide is a must — you’ll truly need their expertise. We met our guide near Middleham Falls, where he was with another group. After a quick chat, we arranged with him to lead our 7-person group for 100€. Along the way, we encountered a lost couple who had attempted the journey on their own. Without trail markers, navigation becomes tricky, and wandering off course here is not something you want to experience.

At 7:00 AM, we met our guide at the parking area near Titou Gorge, the official starting point of the hike.
Before setting off, he gave us a rundown of what to expect — the long journey ahead, steep ascents, and powerful winds that would challenge us along the way.

There are no places along the trail to buy food or drinks, so packing snacks and water is essential and also swimwear

First part of the forest – first climb

Reaching Boiling Lake means conquering three major hills — climbing to the summit and descending three times before finally arriving at the lake itself. The first ascent winds through dense forest, where the terrain steadily rises. Mud is everywhere, making the journey slippery and unpredictable. While wooden steps have been built in sections to help, they are far from consistent, leaving hikers to navigate the challenging path largely on their own.

After half an hour, we took our first break. The trees around us were draped with dangling vines, practically inviting us to channel our inner Tarzan. One by one, we all swung through the air, laughing as we embraced the jungle adventure. Honestly, it was hard to tell whether the kids or adults were having more fun.

Beyond the towering trees and muddy terrain, a vibrant display of plants in all shapes and colors fills the landscape. Their presence brightens the journey and for a brief while, it’s easy to forget that this stretch is actually the easiest part of today’s challenge.

So far, the fallen trees are the only obstacles, requiring a bit of climbing over or ducking under to continue forward. But soon enough, that will change…

Mud, a constant companion along the trail, starts to intensify, turning each step into a challenge. With missing wooden planks, improvisation becomes necessary. Every move requires careful navigation to minimize the risk of slipping.

After about 45 minutes, the first major climb began. That was the moment the kids finally voiced their complaints, insisting we were crazy for attempting this trek. Yet despite their protests, they kept going. Meanwhile, in the back, we were dying, as the never-ending steps stretched ahead of us.

First peak, first breakdowns

At the end of it all, more mud awaited, stretching ahead like an endlessly. By this point, we had mastered the art of walking along the edges, gripping onto anything within reach for balance.
And kids had accepted their fate — keeping their shoes clean was simply mission impossible.

Mud continued to worsen, swallowing the trail with no way around it. Every step felt heavier, and with views still underwhelming, doubts started creeping in. Was this journey really worth it?
Fortunately, the answer was a resounding yes. Turning back would have been the real mistake.

Luckily, after a few minutes, steps leading downhill came into view! A brief moment of relief washed over us. What we didn’t realize yet, however, was that we were about to lose nearly all the elevation we had fought so hard to gain.

After crossing a small stream, the landscape finally opened up, offering a glimpse of our next challenge—the second peak looming ahead. Before tackling the steep climb, however, we had to descend into the valley.

Emerging from the forest, we arrived at a small stream, the natural boundary between the two towering peaks. The kids seized the moment, requesting a break to wash off their muddy shoes, while the adults took the opportunity to catch their breath. Each of us carried a backpack weighing over 10 kilograms, packed with water, food, and other essentials. Once we climbed over the rocks and crossed to the other side, the second ascent loomed ahead.

The second climb is the toughest

The second peak before Boiling Lake brings a fresh challenge. Instead of dense forest, the trail twists upward, revealing wide-open views. Though rewarding, the terrain grows tougher — thick mud slows progress, and strong winds add to the difficulty.

After ten minutes, we catch sight of the first waterfall, carving its path through the dense vegetation. And it’s far from the only one we’ll encounter.

We’re gradually reaching cloud level, and the path grows even tougher. Gone are the comfortable wooden steps. Now, climbing over tree roots is the only way forward. Being mud-covered from head to toe becomes part of the journey. With every step, we grip whatever we can, fighting to stay balanced against the unpredictable terrain.

As we climb higher, the landscape constantly shifts. Lush green hills and deep valleys spread before us, revealing the island’s untamed beauty. At the second summit, the wind howls with force, making every step forward a battle against resistance. But the real challenge still lies ahead as the toughest stretch of the hike is yet to come.

Our planned break at the second summit quickly disappears — the wind is too fierce to stop.
With the felt temperature dropping nearly 15 degrees, the kids start complaining about the cold. Our guide reassures us that this is normal here, urging us forward toward a spot with at least some shelter from the relentless gusts.

Descent into the Valley of Desolation

To reach Boiling Lake, you must first cross the Valley of Desolation, a sulfur-filled landscape that mirrors the raw beauty of Iceland.

The descent into the Valley of Desolation is the toughest part of the entire trek — a place where getting lost is dangerously easy without a guide. There are no markers, no clear paths, only wild, chaotic trails that hardly seem like an actual route.

As soon as you leave the open expanse of the second peak, the landscape shifts dramatically. Towering cliffs rise around the valley, creating an awe-inspiring yet intimidating sight. Their steep walls hint at the challenges ahead.

The narrow path winds along the ridge, with a steep drop just below. Definitely not for those afraid of heights. With barely enough room for a single person at a time, we move cautiously in a line. Thankfully, the wind has calmed, making progress a little easier. Trusting the kids to stay steady, we slowly push forward.

We couldn’t get enough of the mountain views. With the valley ahead still remained hidden, but that only added to the anticipation. Our focus shifted to the distant third peak, standing tall, guarding the final destination — Boiling Lake.

At the turnoff, we come across lost hikers, misled by the wider path, thinking it led to our destination. It didn’t. Luckily, our guide spots them in time, saving them from heading up the wrong peak. With that, our group grows, and it’s clear — getting lost here is common. Having a guide isn’t just helpful; it’s essential.

Valley of Desolation: landscape from another world

The final stretch of the descent pushes us to our limits. On a steep slope, relentlessly battered by powerful winds determined to throw us off balance. Our guide takes charge of the kids, helping them navigate the tricky terrain, while the rest of us attempt to handle it on our own. But truth be told, it’s no easy feat.
This path is brutal, possibly one of the most challenging we’ve ever faced.

After two and a half hours, we finally arrive at the Valley of Desolation. A place that feels entirely otherworldly. Steam escapes from the ground, bubbling sulfur springs gurgle in the distance, and the strong scent of minerals lingers in the air, reminding us that we’re walking through an active volcanic zone.

The smell of sulfur is strong, but we hardly notice it — unless, of course, you’re hiking with a child who despises it and reminds you every minute that they can’t breathe. Turns out, the intensity here is more than we expected.

Valley of Desolation: healing sulphur

Here, the landscape resembles Iceland more and more. With thermal streams weaving through the terrain, their shimmering waters inviting yet deceptive. Resist the urge to touch them! In some places, the temperature is dangerously high. It’s best to simply admire the beauty from a safe distance.

Steam rises all around, creating an atmosphere both surreal and intriguing. Interestingly, you can even boil an egg right here, which our guide demonstrated by dropping an egg into the geothermal waters. At first, I thought it was a bit absurd. However, Martin, of course, dug in happily. His love for food knows no limits, regardless of how crazy the setting.

You can etch your name or any message into the rocks, and it will stay there until a fresh layer of sulfur covers it again. It only took one demonstration for the kids to jump right in. Scribbling messages, giggling as they left their marks, and fully embracing the moment.

Winding deeper into the valley, we follow the larger stream as it gently leads us forward.
Fatigue no longer lingers — replaced by growing anticipation. Thoughts of finally seeing Boiling Lake fuel our steps. We are so close now.

Path around the river and waterfalls

Three hours into the hike, only one last peak separates us from Boiling Lake.
But before tackling the final climb, there’s a moment for pure enjoyment. A waterfall with a shimmering pool welcomes us. Perfect for a refreshing dip on the way back. For now, simply taking in its stunning color is enough.

The river continues its descent, carving deeper into the valley.
Each drop in elevation brings the inevitable realization — we’ll have to climb back up soon.

The wait for the climb continues, as we first navigate a rope descent, dropping even lower into the valley.
For the kids, it’s pure fun, and honestly, I’m enjoying it too. After all the walking, this change of pace feels refreshing. With the wind finally gone, the landscape shifts — trees and towering mountains close in around us, creating a natural shield that wraps the trail in a protective embrace.

Another stunning waterfall greets us, a breathtaking reminder that every step of this journey is worth the effort. Its beauty revitalizes the group, offering a moment of awe before the final climb ahead.

Last hill, last strength

The first section of the final climb is confusing. One moment we’re ascending, the next we’re dropping lower again. Energy is draining, step by step, but Dominica keeps us motivated with the breathtaking views. Even as exhaustion sets in, the scenery continues to captivate, pulling us forward despite the strain.
The kids still have energy to spare, moving ahead with ease. But, of course, they only have themselves to carry.

Back on the ridge, this time narrower than ever—each step demands precision, as the consequences of a single misstep loom large. Caution takes over. We urge the kids to cling to the trees, using every possible way to steady themselves. But we know the end is near.

The trail follows the river, winding through terrain where, at times, a clear path doesn’t exist.
While the slope isn’t steep, exhaustion is creeping in.

A dense cloud suddenly emerges ahead, swirling mysteriously over the landscape.
The realization hits instantly — we’re right there, just moments away from Boiling Lake.

Boiling Lake: a natural wonder in the heart of Dominica

Upon reaching Boiling Lake, exhaustion evaporates instantly, replaced by pure fascination.
Spanning nearly 60 meters, the lake churns with relentless energy. At its center, bubbling whirlpools form and dissolve, releasing thick steam into the air. Meanwhile, a stream of scalding water spills down the valley, marking its path through the volcanic terrain.

Nearly four hours of hiking in one direction, and at last, we’ve arrived.
Our guide begins recounting tales of locals venturing to the lake’s edge, despite the immense danger. The idea feels absurd to me, a reckless gamble for no real reward. With only a single rope path leading down, there’s no easy way back.

No one knows for sure how deep Boiling Lake truly is.
Scientists theorise that its scalding water originates from underground springs, heated by volcanic activity beneath the surface. Temperatures range between 80–90°C, but at the center, they could soar even higher.

Surrounded by steam and rugged terrain, the atmosphere at Boiling Lake is nothing short of extraordinary. Standing here, it’s impossible not to recognize the wild, untamed forces that shape our world. No railings, no artificial pathways. Just pure, raw nature in its most authentic form.
Fortunately, exhaustion has set in for the kids, and their only wish now is to sit down and eat. For us adults, it’s the same, time to finally shed some of the weight we’ve been carrying. Despite finishing three bottles of water, our backpacks still feel unbearably heavy.

Return journey

Anyone expecting the return journey to be easier quickly realizes otherwise.
Traversing the Valley of Desolation once more, tackling steep sections, and enduring the long climb back through the mountain forest, each step demands resilience.
Muscles protest, a constant reminder of the effort behind us. Yet, the mind remains flooded with impressions of the journey.

Fatigue hits hard, pushing us to our limits, yet the only choice is to keep moving forward.
Thankfully, the descent from the first hill is manageable, offering a fresh perspective on the landscape. On the way up, we rarely paused to look around — our focus was on each step ahead.

Moving through the Valley of Desolation without stopping, we still find moments to admire the rugged beauty around us. Yet, the wind grows fiercer, a harsh reminder of how demanding the descent into the valley was. And the way back? Even worse. Slippery rocks, a steep climb, and relentless gusts challenge every step, pushing us to the limit. Thankfully, despite the struggle, we made it through without harm, though it feels like we’ve spent every last bit of strength we had left.

Of course, on the way back, we couldn’t resist the chance to bathe in the waterfall.
Tired and sore, the surprisingly cool water was a welcome relief—a well-earned moment of relaxation. However, a long journey still awaited us, and after about fifteen minutes, we had to pull ourselves away and continue forward.

Return full of challenges

The descent was manageable, but the second climb proved to be a true test of endurance.
With energy running low, the weight of the backpack pulled me backward, forcing a much-needed stop. A quick carbohydrate boost helped, and soon, the guys took over the load, easing the strain.
Meanwhile, the kids found a second wind, tackling the final stretch with surprising ease. On the way down, they even turned it into a small race, their enthusiasm untouched by fatigue.

Every step of the third hill felt like a battle — exhaustion gripping everyone as we counted down the minutes to the final stretch. Then, at last, it happened. We made it. Covered in dust, drained of energy, yet overflowing with happiness and satisfaction

The final hour unfolded as a steady walk downhill, followed by a flat stretch littered with mud, puddles, and other obstacles. The older kids surged ahead, convinced we were moving at a snail’s pace. Meanwhile, the younger ones stuck close, unusually quiet — a rare occurrence. This time, exhaustion finally caught up to them

Despite sheer exhaustion, the return journey took only three and a quarter hours. Which is a solid half-hour less than the trek to Boiling Lake. Completing this hike in under seven hours is nearly impossible, a true testament to the challenge it presents. By the time we checked our watches, they displayed 26,000 steps and 2,500 meters of elevation gained.

Titou Gorge awaited us at the journey’s end — a canyon of icy waters, nestled right beside the parking lot.
After hours of hiking, the need to cool down was undeniable.

A few tips for the journey

• Start early in the morning — the hike takes approximately 7 – 8 hours round trip.
• Don’t go here alone — the risk of getting lost is high, even with a map.
• Bring enough water and food — there’s no opportunity to restock along the route.
  Due to the difficulty of the hike, each person will need at least 2–3 liters of water to stay hydrated.
• Be prepared for mud — the trail is often slippery and muddy, especially after rain.
  Sturdy hiking boots are essential to maintain grip and stability.
• Be cautious when crossing the Valley of Desolation — hot steam, slippery rocks, and potential fissures in the terrain make this section dangerous.
• Don’t underestimate the weather — conditions on the ridge can change rapidly.
  Even if the sun is shining in the morning, bring a waterproof jacket.
• Don’t forget your swimsuit — a dip in the cold water will be a welcome refreshment after the hike.
• This hike isn’t for everyone — it’s physically demanding, with significant elevation gain, steep ascents, and challenging descents. If you don’t have experience with long treks in rough terrain, consider a shorter hike to Middleham or Trafalgar Falls instead.
• Expect to be exhausted — Boiling Lake is no casual stroll through nature.
  By the end, your legs will feel it, but the experience is absolutely worth it! 😊