The town of Monreale

Monreale – a golden treasure above Palermo

We hadn’t even planned to visit Monreale. The idea was to spend half a day at Mondello Beach. But it was so crowded we couldn’t even find a spot to sit, so we started looking for a backup plan. And it paid off — we found a hidden gem.

The road from Palermo to Monreale is short but full of sights. It winds uphill through tight curves, and even though it’s just a few kilometres, we kept turning our heads. Palermo slowly faded behind us, and the bay opened up below. And before we even reached Monreale, we’d already stopped twice — both times because of a fountain.

First stop: Fontana del Pescatore. It’s not large, but it feels deeply poetic. At its center, two figures — perhaps mythological rather than human, hold a water jug while seated on a strange creature that looks like a dragon or sea serpent. The fountain wasn’t flowing, yet it radiated a quiet calm and old-world beauty. Around them, a stone basin edged with smaller sculptures completed the scene.

Fontana del Drago – hidden mythology

We almost missed Fontana del Drago. Hidden by greenery on one side and blending into an old wall on the other. But when we stopped, we noticed the stonework. At the base, a dragon’s head juts out from the wall, staring straight at the road. Above it, a stream of water falls through a large stone shell, adding a quiet rhythm to the scene. Simple, but full of character.

The whole setup feels like a model of a natural waterfall — water coming from above, flowing through the shell, ending in the dragon’s mouth. Around the fountain, more sculpted figures complete the scene. Just a pity there’s no sign or explanation nearby. A bit of context would help the details stand out even more.

Both fountains we saw on the way to Monreale were built in the 17th and 18th centuries along the old road between Palermo and Monreale. Once a source of water and shade for travelers, they’re now quiet stops with character. For us, they were unexpected finds that made the day feel fuller and more memorable.

Fontana del Tritone – a myth surrounded by flowers

After parking near the cathedral, we were drawn to Fontana del Tritone standing in front of its grand facade. Built in the 19th century by Mario Rutelli, the fountain takes inspiration from ancient mythology—but in person, it feels gentler than the name suggests.

In the center stands Triton — a mythical sea god — but any sense of solemnity fades quickly. The whole space comes alive with flowers and color, turning the fountain into something almost fairy-tale-like. Around it, sea creatures: fish, dolphins, shells, many of them covered in blooms. One dolphin dotted with yellow flowers, another with pink. The floral decoration continues across the rest of the fountain, creating a kind of garden — an underwater kingdom in full bloom.

Duomo di Monreale – gold and stories

Duomo di Monreale is one of the most important Norman landmarks in Sicily. Built in the 12th century by King William II, it blends Latin, Byzantine, and Arab styles. Majestic from the outside — but the real experience begins once you step inside.

Walls and ceilings are covered with over 6,000 m² of golden mosaics, showing the full biblical story — from Creation through Old and New Testament. Made by Byzantine craftsmen, it’s one of the largest mosaic cycles in Europe.

On one side, we follow the story of Creation — God separating light from darkness, creating Adam and Eve, their departure from Eden. Nearby, Noah builds the ark, water floods the world, and a dove flies above it. The mosaics then shift smoothly into New Testament scenes — Annunciation, Nativity, Jesus’s first miracles, Last Supper, Crucifixion, Resurrection.

Architecturally, it’s a three-aisled basilica with a coffered ceiling and a wide transept. In the apse stands a monumental Christ Pantocrator—an iconic mosaic visible as soon as you enter. At the lower end of the cathedral lies the tomb of King Villiam II, who had the church built as a statement of faith and power.

Advice to wrap up

📍 Distance
Monreale sits just about 10 kilometers from Palermo centre, but the road climbs uphill — so by car, it takes around 30 minutes.

🚌 Transport
You can get to Monreale by bus no. 389P from Palermo (from Piazzale Indipendenza), but the ride is slower and often crowded. It runs daily, usually every 35–40 minutes, though in summer it tends to fill up quickly.

🕒 Recommended time for visit
Plan at least 2–3 hours for Monreale itself — the cathedral and cloister deserve unhurried attention. And if you happen to catch a fountain or a view along the way, it turns into the kind of trip that stays with you.

☕ Refreshments
Near the cathedral, there are several cafés where you can sit down and enjoy a coffee or grab some gelato.

🌇 What to combine it with?
Monreale works well as a half- or full-day trip from Palermo — especially if you’re after art, history, views, and a quieter pace outside the city. You can also pair it with a visit to Temple of Segesta or Zingaro Nature Reserve. Mondello Beach isn’t the best pick in summer—too crowded to enjoy.