Erice

Erice – a stone treasure above Trapani

If you’re looking for a place where history blends with the magical charm of ancient alleyways, Erice will captivate you at first sight. This small medieval town sits atop Monte Erice at 751 meters above sea level and offers stunning views of Sicily’s western coast, the salt flats near Trapani, and the distant Aegadian Islands.

The road from Trapani to Erice

You can easily reach Erice from Trapani by cable car (Funivia Trapani-Erice). The ride takes about 10 minutes, offering beautiful panoramic views of sea, coast, and green hills. As for tickets, a round trip costs around 11€ per person (seasonal changes possible). However, during strong winds, service may be suspended. Though it usually runs from early morning until late evening.

If you prefer driving, a winding mountain road with great views awaits. Just below the town, there’s a free parking lot only a few minutes’ walk from the historic center. Driving is especially convenient for those planning to stay until evening and enjoy Erice without the tourist crowds. We also chose to come by car and left after sunset.

We parked near the Duomo and entered the town through Porta Trapani. Snapped a photo of the map and the Duomo was already calling to us.

Duomo dell’Assunta

Not far from the entrance stands the monumental Duomo dell’Assunta, built in the 14th century by King Frederick III. After an earthquake in the 19th century, it underwent major reconstruction but retained its original Gothic atmosphere. Unfortunately, we arrived too late. All churches in Erice close between 4:00 and 5:00 p.m.—we got there around 5:30 after our trip to Favignana.

From the outside, the cathedral appears solid and imposing, with a simple yet elegant facade and a tall bell tower standing separately beside it.

Torre Campanaria originally served as a watchtower. Today, you can buy a ticket there and climb its spiral staircase to the top. The reward? Incredible panoramic views. Truly better than from other spots, since nothing blocks the vista.

Winding through narrow alleys into the heart of town

From the Duomo, we headed into the heart of town. Just a few minutes later, we reached the second little church — Chiesa di San Martino. This small stone church stands out with its simple yet elegant facade. Its clean lines and modest decoration blend beautifully with the medieval character of Erice. The kids loved the pink exterior, while I was drawn to the richly ornamented entrance.

A short walk away stands Chiesa di San Giuliano, another historic gem of Erice. Dedicated to Saint Julian, this church dates back to the 11th century and features its own bell tower. Naturally, the kids asked why such a small town had so many churches. We turned to Google and found that wealthy families and monastic orders in Erice often founded new churches — not only as expressions of faith but also as a way to secure a “place in heaven” through donations and the establishment of monasteries.

Castello di Venere

Our path led us to Erice’s most iconic landmark — Castello di Venere. This medieval fortress was built atop the ruins of an ancient temple dedicated to the goddess Venus, once a sacred site for peoples who worshiped love and fertility. Only faint traces of the original sanctuary remain, but the castle’s massive stone walls still rise proudly above the cliffs.

The castle offers sweeping views in every direction —Trapani, the salt flats, the sea, and on clear days, even the coast of Tunisia. Surrounding it, the Giardino del Balio gardens invites quiet strolls beneath shady trees and along flower-lined paths. The atmosphere felt almost enchanted, especially in the golden light of evening, when the castle walls seemed to glow. And that view of the Aegadian Islands? Unbeatable, especially knowing we’d stood on Favignana and Levanzo just hours earlier.

The walls are dotted with lookout niches, each framing a different scene. Some open toward the castle itself, revealing its rugged silhouette against the sky. Others face the coastline, offering sweeping views of the sea.

Torretta Pepoli

When you look down from the walls of Castello di Venere, your gaze is sure to be drawn to a small, romantic structure nestled among the rocks — Torretta Pepoli. This elegant neo-Gothic castle was built in the 19th century by Count Agostino Pepoli, a lover of art and history, who wanted a peaceful retreat for study and writing. Torretta feels like something out of a fairy tale, with its turrets, battlements, and stunning views of the sea and the valley below Erice.

The streets of Erice

From the castle, we decided to lose ourselves in the alleys — taking different paths than the ones we came by, and it worked. We grabbed some arancini (we’d definitely become addicted by this point) and soaked in the view of the setting sun.

The alleys of Erice immediately charmed us with their varied atmosphere. Some buzzed with life — lined with souvenir shops, the scent of fresh pastries in the air, and the gentle hum of conversations between tourists and locals.

Elsewhere, we found ourselves in quiet, empty alleys where stone walls and ancient cobblestones seemed to whisper stories from centuries past. Narrow paths twisted between low houses, and now and then we passed small inner courtyards that felt completely deserted — as if time itself had paused there.

Erice Pass – a convenient ticket to monuments

If you’re planning to visit several historical sites in Erice, it’s definitely worth getting the Erice Pass. This combined ticket includes access to the town’s most important churches, museums, and the bell tower next to the cathedral.

For around 6€ (as of 2024, though the price may vary slightly), you get access to:

• Duomo dell’Assunta – the city’s main cathedral
• Torre Campanaria – an iconic bell tower with breathtaking views
• several other small but beautiful churches scattered throughout the town, such as Chiesa di San Martino, Chiesa di San Giuliano, and Chiesa di San Cataldo
• and some small museums

You can buy the Erice Pass right at the entrance to the Torre Campanaria, which serves as the main ticket point. When you buy it, they’ll hand you a map of the town with the landmarks marked, so it’s easy to see what you can visit.

When to visit Erice

Erice moves at a different pace than the coastal towns. The best time to visit is early in the morning or in the evening, when the tourist crowds have thinned out and the old town feels like it’s yours again. In summer, it tends to be a bit cooler than down by the sea — a welcome refreshment after hot days.

If you come in the evening, the town may be empty — but all the landmarks will be closed too. It has its charm, but we missed the chance to peek inside the churches. We even considered coming back early the next morning, but the kids protested and made it very clear we were out of our minds. They wanted to sleep and then head to the beach 😊. So that’s what we did, and off we went to the Zingaro Nature Reserve.