Into the Glacier ice tunnel
24. November 2024
Salt Cathedral – gem near Bogota
17. January 2025
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Bogotá - gateway to Colombia
Our journey through Colombia began in the capital — Bogotá. Online, we came across countless posts claiming there’s not much to see here, that the city isn’t worth a stop. So we gave it just two days. And that turned out to be a big mistake.
Bogotá is captivating. It’s vibrant, full of life, and the views — especially from the hills above — are absolutely stunning.
Even more beautiful than the city itself is the countryside around Bogotá — and sadly, we didn’t have enough time to explore it properly. We could’ve used at least one or two extra days to soak in the natural wonders scattered all around the capital.
Since Bogotá was both our arrival and departure point, we spent the first day exploring the city itself. For the final day — the one before our flight — we set aside time for the surrounding area, just in case anything unexpected came up.
What to see in Bogota?
Important things to be careful about in Bogotá?
First thing’s first — head to the nearest Davivienda ATM and withdraw some cash. Even though Bogotá is the capital, card payments often don’t work in small grocery stores, local restaurants, or even at some entrance gates. Davivienda ATMs offer higher withdrawal limits, which comes in handy if you’re traveling with family and need more than just pocket change.
Okrem peňazí je dobré mať na pamäti aj bezpečnosť. Vyhýbajte sa tmavým a opusteným uličkám, najmä večer, a dávajte pozor na svoje veci v preplnených dopravných prostriedkoch. Polícia je prítomná najmä v turistických častiach, ale ostražitosť sa vždy hodí. Stačí použiť zdravý rozum. Bežne sme v meste fotili, deti boli na telefóne a nikto sa nás nepokúsil okradnúť. No nikdy sme sa od seba neoddelili.
Another thing to keep in mind is the altitude. Bogotá sits at around 2,640 meters above sea level, which can trigger mild altitude sickness — especially fatigue, headaches, or dizziness.
Give yourself time to adjust and drink plenty of water. Your body will thank you for it.
The weather can shift in an instant, so be ready for sudden rain — even when the sun’s out. Don’t underestimate the power of sunscreen and a light jacket. They’ll keep you covered, no matter what Bogotá throws your way.
Where to stay in Bogota?
Choosing where to stay in Bogota really depends on what you want from the city. If you’d like to be right in the heart of history, culture, and everyday bustle, the best choice is La Candelaria. Here you’ll find museums, colonial streets, colorful houses, and plenty of cafés and restaurants that give the neighborhood its unique charm. The atmosphere is unlike anywhere else, everything is within easy reach, and you can explore the city center comfortably on foot.
If you’re after budget-friendly accommodation but still want comfort, Candelaria House Boutique might be just what you’re looking for.
If you’re looking for something more upscale, check out Camelia by Masaya.
If you value comfort, a more modern setting, and have an early flight or late arrival, staying near El Dorado Airport is a practical choice. Hotels in this area tend to be newer, better equipped, and just minutes from the terminal — saving you a lot of stress.
The downside is the distance from the city centre, which takes about 30 minutes by taxi. We chose this option and didn’t regret it. We stayed at Hotel Habitel, which offered a free 24/7 airport shuttle and served an excellent breakfast.
Monserrate – Bogota at your fingertips
The most stunning part of Bogotá is, without a doubt, the mountain towering above the city — reaching 3,152 meters above sea level. If you’re not acclimatised, be prepared for headaches and fatigue.
Even from the city below, the sight of the mountain commands respect — but from the top of Monserrate, it feels like a dream. The panoramic view of Bogotá is truly breathtaking, revealing just how vast and vibrant this metropolis really is.
Monserrate je zároveň najznámejším pútnickým miestom v Bogote. Už v 17. storočí tu postavili kaplnku, ktorú neskôr prestavali na kostol. Dnes tu nájdete Baziliku Pána z Monserrate (Santuario del Señor Caído de Monserrate), do ktorej prichádzajú pútnici z celého sveta. My sme sa však najprv vybrali za výhľadmi.
Up by cable car
As soon as we arrived by taxi at the base of the mountain, we joined a short queue to buy tickets for the cable car. A round trip for four people cost us 26€.
The ride itself was a treat — offering stunning views of the city, especially if you managed to snag a spot near the edge of the cabin. And this isn’t your typical ski lift; it’s a large cable car that fits around 50 people, gliding smoothly up the steep slope toward Monserrate’s summit.
After just a few minutes, we stepped out at the summit and immediately felt the thinner air — refreshing, yet unmistakably high-altitude.
Right after stepping out of the cable car, we set off on a short walk toward the viewpoints. It felt like we were walking through the clouds — the high altitude and dense forest created a soft mist that wrapped around us like something out of a dream.
The path was lined with beautiful flowers, creating a vibrant corridor of color and scent. As we walked, we could hear birdsong echoing through the trees and spot various species flitting between the blossoms
Visiting during Christmas made everything even more special. Stars, crowns, and festive decorations adorned every lamppost. Even Monserrate shimmered with holiday lights, adding warmth to the cool mountain air.
By the way, all of Colombia truly comes alive during Christmas. The entire country is draped in spectacular decorations, with attractions for children and — most notably — the dazzling Christmas festival in Cali.
After a few minutes of walking, we reached a viewpoint with a sweeping panorama of the city. But what caught our eye first wasn’t the skyline — it was a Christmas tree, placed not to frame Bogotá’s urban sprawl, but to overlook the endless greenery we will be discovering throughout our journey in Colombia.
View of the whole city
Finally, our eyes turned toward the sprawling metropolis below. As far as we could see, Bogotá stretched endlessly — a vibrant tangle of skyscrapers, church spires, and scattered patches of green.
From this height, everything looked miniature. It was only here, standing above it all, that we truly grasped the sheer scale of Bogotá.
Even the low stone walls around the viewpoints were adorned with flowers — delicate bursts of color softening the edges of the mountain. Looking down, the city seemed almost devoid of greenery, but up here on Monserrate, nature reclaims its space. This is where the manmade fades and the wild begins.
And of course, there’s the iconic Bogotá sign — just in case you forgot where you were. It stands proudly near the viewpoint, a popular photo spot for visitors. From here, you can already see the edges of the city. And what marks those edges? Mountains, of course — wrapping around Bogotá from three sides.
Right next to the sign is a restaurant, perched with a view. We didn’t try it ourselves, but it looked inviting.
On the way back, we took a different route
If you’re not keen on retracing your steps, there’s a quieter path that leads closer to the edge of the city.
Along this route, you’ll find more flowers blooming freely and a richer touch of nature.
Monserrate even has a dedicated birdwatching trail. Sadly, during our visit, it was closed.
Right on the gate sat a proud little one, as if to say: “This territory already belongs to my crew.”
As we reached the cable car station, the rain began to fall — a gentle reminder that Bogotá’s weather can shift in an instant. Still, we paused for one last look at the Christmas decorations, glistening softly in the mist. Martin’s headache from the altitude was growing stronger, and we knew it was time to descend. Unfortunately, we’d had no time to acclimate — we’d landed at 6:00 a.m. and headed straight into the city. There was no point in prolonging the suffering.
Just below Monserrate, you’ll find a lively stretch filled with local vendors offering snacks, bottled water, and sweet treats. The roads around the here are busy, and while taxis are plentiful, it’s smarter to call one through Bolt.
While you’re waiting — treat yourself to one of Colombia’s beloved street snacks.
Museum of gold
Another stop on our Bogotá journey was the Gold Museum (Museo del Oro). We hadn’t expected much, but the moment we stepped inside, we were captivated. As the name suggests, the museum is filled with shimmering gold artefacts: statues, figurines, ceremonial masks — each one telling a story of Colombia’s pre-Hispanic civilizations. To our delight, we discovered that entry is free on Sundays. So we wandered through this treasure trove without spending a cent — a rare treat for budget travelers.
The intersection of history
One of the first things that caught our attention at the Gold Museum was a massive illustrated timeline stretching across an entire wall. It mapped the evolution of civilizations through time and across continents . We were especially drawn to the prehistoric sections. It was eye-opening to realize just how differently human societies developed depending on where they were in the world.
One of the most fascinating insights from the Gold Museum was the stark contrast in how civilizations evolved across the globe. In the Andes, people were already mastering the art of gold processing — while in other regions, societies were just beginning to organize around agriculture.
It was a bit disappointing to see that Göbekli Tepe — one of the most mysterious and groundbreaking archaeological sites — was missing from the museum’s timeline. On the bright side, we were pleasantly surprised to find that many of the museum’s panels and explanations were available in English — a rare luxury in Colombia.
Layout of the museum and atmosphere
The museum is masterfully curated into several thematic sections, each offering a deep dive into the lives and beliefs of Colombia’s ancient civilizations. There are items from every era, just amazing!
Nájdete tu viac ako 55-tisíc artefaktov, predovšetkým zlatých, ale aj zo striebra, medi, kameňa či keramiky. Všetky pochádzajú z obdobia pred príchodom Európanov a patria k desiatkam pôvodných národov, ako boli Muiscovia, Taironovia, Quimbaya či Calima.
Each room had its own lighting setup, casting just enough glow to create a sense of mystery. Golden artifacts sat behind glass, and some were so finely detailed we had to lean in close to catch the tiny engravings. It wasn’t just about beauty — it was about meaning. Like the golden chest plates, probably from the Tairona culture in northern Colombia, decorated with almost invisible patterns that hinted at something deeper.
Artifacts that caught our attention
The biggest impression was left by the legendary golden raft — Balsa Muisca. It’s a small, intricate gold figurine showing a tribal chief performing a ritual on Lake Guatavita. The scene is mesmerizing: the chief stands on a raft surrounded by attendants, all cast in gold, frozen in a moment of sacred offering. This ritual is tied to the famous El Dorado legend, which made it much easier to explain to the kids why the Spanish were so obsessed with finding a mythical golden kingdom.
I was fascinated by the tiny figurines. They were smaller than a finger, yet crafted with unbelievably intricate detail.
What really caught our eye were the gold masks used in religious ceremonies. Then came the animal-shaped amulets, the delicately crafted earrings, and even pieces of armor. Our kids were especially amazed by the jewelry — all made without modern tools, just fire and a few simple instruments.
At one point, we walked into a room with a projection of a man wearing traditional gold ornaments. Each piece was explained with its original purpose. Some of them we’d never even heard of before. It felt like stepping into a forgotten world.
What stuck with me most was a plaque showing two snakes facing each other. According to the description, it was actually one snake with a head at each end — a symbol tied to the sun and its eternal movement between two opposite points on the horizon. Apparently, this motion was believed to be the origin of life itself.
Multimedia room and conclusion
Toward the end of the tour, we stepped into a dark, circular room with a panoramic display of golden artifacts. Every few minutes, a light and sound show would begin — a powerful presentation of gold’s spiritual meaning in pre-Columbian cultures. For a moment, it felt like being inside a temple. The silence, the darkness, and the shimmering gold created something almost magical.
We ended up spending about two hours in the museum, and even the kids admitted it wasn’t boring at all. Totally worth the 1.20€ entry fee — at least outside of Sundays.
One of the perks is that you can walk here from La Candelaria in about 15 minutes. Along the way, you get to explore its winding streets and quiet little corners.
Plaza Bolívar
Probably the most famous part of Bogotá is La Candelaria — a charming maze of colorful streets filled with history, decorations, and hidden gems. Each alley has its own character, and there’s something almost fairytale-like about the way they twist and turn. Walking through them is the kind of experience that stays with you. We’ll never forget it.
We kicked off our wanderings through the city center by hopping in a taxi and heading straight to Plaza Bolívar, Bogotá’s most iconic square.
This iconic square is the heart of Bogotá — a place where past and present meet. Surrounding it are majestic buildings: Catedral Primada, Palacio de Justicia, Capitolio Nacional, and the Bogotá City Hall, each with its own story to tell. At the center stands the statue of Simón Bolívar, the liberator whose name the square proudly carries.
You could barely see the statue — it was almost swallowed up by the Christmas decorations covering half the square.
Plaza Bolívar buzzes with life — kids feeding pigeons, street performers playing music, and both locals and tourists lounging on the steps, soaking in the rhythm of the city. For just a few cents, you can buy pigeon feed from nearby vendors, and suddenly the kids are busy for ages. Every child in sight was either tossing grains or chasing flocks across the square.
You’ll also come across locals with alpacas — and for just €2, you can snap a photo with one. The kids even got to pet them for free. Sure, it’s a touristy thing, but the alpacas looked surprisingly content.
Primado Cathedral – icon of Bolivar Square
The moment we arrived at Plaza Bolívar, our eyes were drawn to a majestic building with twin towers and a gently curved façade. Catedral Primada stood there in quiet elegance — not flashy, but dignified.
It was built on the site of the original chapel, where the very first mass was held in 1538 after the Spanish arrived in what is now Bogotá.
The cathedral’s current form dates back to the 19th century and stands as a brilliant example of Neoclassical architecture.
Outside the cathedral, the square buzzes with life — but the moment we stepped inside, it felt like entering another world. Silence took over. A gentle calm settled in, broken only by the soft footsteps of a few visitors.
Tall columns reached toward the ceiling, white walls stood bare and quiet, and a handful of altars offered space for reflection. Nothing was overly ornate. That simplicity, though, gave the place its sacred weight.
Hidden within the cathedral are tombs of key figures from Colombia’s history — including Gonzalo Jiménez de Quesada, the founder of Bogotá.
Capitolio Nacional – seat of the Colombian Congress
Standing in the middle of the square, right across from the cathedral, we found ourselves face to face with the imposing Capitolio Nacional — the main seat of Colombia’s Congress. Its design is simple, classic, unmistakably Neoclassical, yet it radiates a quiet dignity. Built in the 19th century, the Capitol now houses both the Senate and the House of Representatives. Something about its columns and symmetry instantly reminded us of ancient European architecture
Palacio de Justicia
On the northern side of Plaza Bolívar rises the Palacio de Justicia — a modern structure built from white stone, home to Colombia’s Supreme Court (Corte Suprema de Justicia). Today, it stands in quiet dignity, but its walls carry echoes of a turbulent past.
The original palace was destroyed in 1985 during the infamous M-19 guerrilla attack, when armed militants stormed the building and the army later retook it in a bloody operation. More than 100 people lost their lives — judges, civilians, and court staff among them. If you’ve seen the series Narcos, this event was portrayed quite vividly. Though Escobar’s involvement remains unconfirmed, the drama and tragedy of that day left a deep scar on Colombian history. Today’s building has been rebuilt and now stands as a symbol of justice, remembrance, and democracy. Just outside the main entrance, you’ll find memorial plaques honoring the victims.
Iglesia San Ignacio
Just a few steps from Plaza Bolívar stands the modest yet remarkably precious Iglesia de San Ignacio — one of Bogotá’s oldest and most beautiful Baroque buildings. We nearly missed it, tucked away as it was, but its soft pink façade caught our eye just in time. Built by Jesuits in the 17th century, the church hides a richly adorned interior that takes you by surprise.
As soon as we stepped inside, we were surrounded by rich golden décor, frescoes adorning the vaulted ceilings, and elegant Baroque altars. The church is divided into three naves, with the central one naturally guiding your gaze toward the main altar, which features a vivid scene of St. Ignatius of Loyola.
What truly stands out is the wooden coffered ceiling, whose intricate details showcase the craftsmanship of colonial artisans. On either side, you’ll find smaller chapels — each with its own atmosphere and statue, such as St. Francis Xavier or the Virgin Mary — inviting quiet moments of reflection.
Santuario Nuestra Señora del Carmen
As we wandered through the colorful streets of La Candelaria, one church stood out unmistakably from the rest. Santuario Nuestra Señora del Carmen is easily one of the most striking buildings in the area. With its red-and-white striped façade, it looked like a cross between a gingerbread house and an oriental palace — impossible to ignore even from a distance.
Built between 1926 and 1938, the sanctuary is a Neo-Gothic masterpiece infused with Mudejar elements — a style that blends Islamic and Christian influences. That fusion becomes especially apparent once you step inside, where the intricate patterns and rich details evoke a sense of sacred artistry that’s both unexpected and captivating.
Inside, the walls were painted a deep blue, creating a striking contrast with the towering columns wrapped in red-and-white stripes.
Once inside Santuario Nuestra Señora del Carmen, your eyes are naturally drawn to four prominent statues perched above the main arches. These figures represent the four Evangelists — Matthew, Mark, Luke, and John — each holding a book or scroll, symbolizing the gospel they are believed to have spread across the world.
The statues were crafted from concrete and placed high beneath the dome, giving them a majestic presence as they seem to watch over the entire sanctuary from above. Adding to the visual richness, the arches are adorned with delicate ornamental details. Among the most striking elements are the chains featuring fleur-de-lis motifs — stylized lilies that symbolize the purity of the Virgin Mary and also serve as a nod to ecclesiastical tradition.
The streets of La Candelaria
From Plaza Bolívar, we wandered straight into the narrow streets of La Candelaria, where Bogotá reveals its most authentic face. Each alley pulses with its own rhythm, and every façade seems to whisper a different story. Rather than following a map, we let ourselves drift aimlessly, drawn by the charm of the colonial architecture and the ever-present view of Monserrate towering above.
The houses burst with color — blue stands boldly beside yellow, pink blends playfully into green, and in between, you’ll spot traditional wooden windows, carved balconies, and flower pots hanging from nearly every corner
Each of the winding streets led us to cozy art galleries, cafés perched above old rooftops, and charming craft shops tucked into colonial facades.
In some of the streets, flags fluttered everywhere — draped from balconies, hanging across alleys, adding bursts of color to the quiet facades. As we walked, we paid attention to the details: old lanterns, ceramic tiles on the walls, and heavy wooden doors with ornate knockers that seemed to guard stories from centuries past. Many buildings bore plaques marking them as cultural landmarks, while others felt frozen in time — untouched, almost forgotten. Along the way, we passed by the Casa de la Moneda, the Museo Botero, and several historic universities, each adding another layer to the neighborhood’s rich tapestry.
Despite its beauty, most of the streets felt strangely deserted — as if no one actually lived there.
La Candelaria isn’t the kind of place you simply visit and leave. It’s a neighborhood that invites you to slow down, stay curious, and let yourself be surprised. Despite its reputation — often shadowed by reports of crime and danger in the capital — the atmosphere here felt calm, almost serene. The contrast was striking. Just like in many other cities, we found ourselves feeling far safer than in some of the world’s major metropolises.
Basílica Menor Nuestra Señora de Lourdes
When we hopped into a taxi headed for the Chapinero district, our driver hesitated. He warned us it might not be safe — a sentiment we’d heard before. Still, we were determined to explore a different side of Bogotá, and during our research, one place had especially caught our eye: the Basílica de Lourdes.
The church was built at the turn of the 19th and 20th centuries. 19. and its Neo-Gothic façade, adorned with stone details and sharp spires, immediately evokes a distinctly European feel — reminiscent of cathedrals in France or Belgium.
Upon entering, we’re greeted by vibrant stained glass windows, soaring vaults, and a soft, diffused light filtering through the colored panes.
The main altar is dedicated to Our Lady of Lourdes, whose statue also appears in one of the side chapels. It’s here that locals come with their prayers and petitions.
One of the stained glass windows even features an image of the sanctuary in Lourdes — a quiet homage to its French counterpart. Yet the scene feels strikingly different: instead of a bustling town or crowds of pilgrims, the church is nestled in solitude, surrounded only by dense forest.
Given the pre-Christmas season, it was no surprise to find a nativity scene nestled beneath the main altar. Though modest and less ornate than the ones we’d seen in France or Belgium, it carried a quiet charm that lingered. What truly elevated its beauty were the tiny lights, flickering like candles, casting a warm glow over the figures.
And even though this was our final stop within the city itself (not counting the promised visit to the shopping mall), our minds were already drifting toward the next day.
What to see around Bogota?
If the bustle of Bogota wears you out, just an hour’s drive takes you into a completely different world of misty mountains, green valleys, and small towns where life moves at a slower pace. Day trips from the capital are varied and easy to manage, whether you go by car or bus, and they fit perfectly into a single day. You also don’t need to limit yourself to the city center alone, since there are countless places worth exploring in the surrounding region.
The best option after exploring Bogota is to rent a car for two days and use it for short trips around the region. Prices start at about 20€ per day, and driving in Colombia outside the capital felt very similar to what you’d expect in most European countries. You can easily book your car here: car rental
If you’re drawn to dramatic landscapes, Tequendama Falls is a must. This 132-meter-high waterfall plunges into a deep canyon, and its roar can be heard long before you arrive. The site is steeped in indigenous legends, but also carries a darker history from the 20th century, adding layers of mystery to its natural beauty. Today, visitors can explore a museum housed in a former hotel, and step out onto a terrace with breathtaking views of the falls and surrounding cliffs. As evening falls, the waterfall is illuminated with colorful lights, transforming the entire scene into something truly unforgettable.
A little further on you’ll find Salto La Chorrera, the tallest waterfall in Colombia, dropping an impressive 590 meters. The hike to reach it follows a seven‑kilometer trail that winds through pastures and Andean forests. Along the way you pass the Trees of Wishes and the Spring of Beauty, both adding a touch of local magic to the journey. On the way back, the path takes you past the smaller El Chiflón waterfall, where a hidden cave waits to be explored.
For a completely different kind of experience, we recommend visiting the Salt Cathedral in Zipaquirá. This remarkable cathedral is carved deep inside a salt mine, and as you walk through its illuminated tunnels you feel as if you’ve stepped into an underground sanctuary. It’s a unique blend of architecture, spirituality, and natural heritage that you won’t find anywhere else in Colombia.
A trip a little further away:
- About six hours south of Bogotá lies the Tatacoa Desert — though calling it a desert is a bit misleading. It’s more accurately a semi-arid landscape, sculpted into dramatic red canyons and gray rock formations that resemble something from another planet. The terrain feels almost lunar, making it a dream for hiking, photography, and especially stargazing. And above else the night sky here is among the clearest in all of Colombia.
