The small town of Cefalu

Cefalu – a stone beauty between the mountain and the sea

Cefalù is one of those places that wins you over at first glance. A charming historic centre, turquoise sea, sandy beach and towering above it all, the dramatic Rocca di Cefalù. It’s this striking mix that makes this small seaside town on Sicily’s northern coast one of the island’s most photogenic spots.

We arrived in Cefalù in the morning, just as the old town was beginning to stir. Narrow alleys lay empty, stone facades glowed in the soft morning light, and the first visitors were settling in at café tables. We grabbed a quick coffee and headed straight for Rocca di Cefalù. The hike was fantastic, and afterwards, the town was ours to explore.,

Duomo di Cefalu

But the true centerpiece is undoubtedly the Cathedral of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary—Duomo di Cefalù. This Romanesque cathedral from the 12th century, commissioned by Norman King Roger II, rises above the main square like a fortress. Its exterior feels austere, almost defensive, but inside, it holds something extraordinary. Byzantine mosaics considered among the most beautiful in all of Sicily.

In front of the cathedral, we were met with a beautiful burst of flowers that gave the whole square a charm all its own.

The Christ Pantocrator mosaic in the apse is breathtaking — set against a golden backdrop, with radiant colors and a majestic figure whose gaze seems to pierce right through you. Your eyes are drawn upward and simply won’t let go. This cathedral doesn’t dazzle with grandeur, but with the quiet power of spiritual expression. Created in 1148, the mosaics are among the best-preserved examples of Byzantine art outside Constantinople. Though equally beautiful ones can be found in Palermo and Monreale, this one leaves a lasting impression.

The interior has three naves, divided by massive columns with Corinthian capitals, but it feels rather bare. Aside from the mosaics, the decoration is minimal — which only makes them stand out more. Beyond the cathedral, the beach, and the hike up to Rocca di Cefalù, there isn’t much else to do here. Still, even though we didn’t spend more than an hour in town, the climb to Rocca alone made the trip worthwhile.

Beach in Cefalu

The beach in Cefalù is wide and golden, lined with palm trees and a seaside promenade. We saw it from above—and honestly, it put us off. It was completely covered in sunbeds, the kind of crowded, commercial beach we tend to avoid. So we skipped it altogether and chose a different kind of swim that day—at Gole di Tiberio.

Climbing Rocca – experience of the day

Even though the cathedral is considered the main cultural highlight, the real standout of the day for us was the hike up to the Rocca. This rocky hill offers not only breathtaking views of the coastline and the entire town, but also a brush with history — ruins of a castle and ancient structures scattered along the way. Although the climb isn’t long, but it’s no walk in the park. Hike is steep and sun-drenched. Definitely worth starting early in the morning or later in the afternoon.