Enna and Pergusa Lake

Enna and Lake Pergusa: The Abduction of Persephone

If you’re drawn to places where history comes alive through myth, and nature stuns with its beauty. Than be sure to visit Enna and Lake Pergusa. This unique blend of a charming medieval town and a mysterious lake steeped in legend will transport you straight into the heart of antiquity. From the sweeping views atop the medieval castle to the captivating tales of Persephone. And to the peaceful atmosphere of the nature reserve. There are plenty of reasons why this corner of Sicily is well worth the journey.

Lake Pergusa: Place of myth and tranquility

Lake Pergusa is the only natural lake in Sicily, tucked just a few kilometers from Enna. With its deep blue-green hue, it exudes an almost mystical atmosphere. According to ancient myth, this very spot witnessed the tragic tale of Persephone. Which was abducted by Hades and taken to the underworld. Locals say it was here, on the lake’s shore, that the earth opened, and Hades vanished with Persephone into his realm.
We shared this story with the children as we sat by the water, and our six-year-old Katya was absolutely enchanted. For years, she kept talking about Persephone, and I found myself telling the story again and again. If you’re traveling with kids, don’t miss the full retelling at the end of this article.

Today, Lake Pergusa is encircled by the Pergusa Nature Reserve, where you can wander among wild plants and observe rare bird species in their natural habitat. In spring, migrating flamingos make a stop at the lake. And their blush-pink feathers adding a splash of color to the scenery. During the summer months, the water’s surface becomes dotted with water lilies. Which creates a breathtaking contrast against the lake’s dark, mysterious depths.

Although you won’t see flamingos in the summer and the lake doesn’t blush pink, its serenity and beauty still make it well worth a visit. Stroll beneath ancient trees that frame the landscape with a quiet dignity, and let yourself drift back three thousand years, to a time when this lake may have played a pivotal role in ancient myth.

Enna: City of the goddess Demeter

Enna enchanted us from the very first glimpse — from afar, the ancient town appears to float above the landscape, perched atop a rocky hill in the very heart of Sicily. Its commanding position once offered a strategic military advantage, but today it’s all about the sweeping panoramic views and a timeless atmosphere where past and present intertwine effortlessly.

The stone-paved alleyways of Enna wind upward so steeply that at times, it feels like you’re climbing into the heaven itself. With every step, the town whispers its history. With flowers cascading from ancient balconies, weathered facades radiating a quiet elegance, and beyond the bustling square, a silence so deep it’s almost sacred. But beneath this quiet beauty lies something more profound—a sense of spiritual gravity. Here, among these narrow paths and watchful ruins, you don’t just remember myths — you feel them. The presence of Demeter, the goddess once revered in this land, seems to echo in the stones beneath your feet.

Medieval castle and shrine of Demeter

The dominant jewel of Enna is without doubt the Castello di Lombardia — a sprawling medieval fortress that stands among the largest and best-preserved castles on the island. Walking its ramparts and inner courtyards feels like stepping through a portal in time. Even its name evokes the Lombard garrisons said to have been stationed here in the Middle Ages. But the castle’s story stretches much farther back: this site once hosted a pre-Greek acropolis, later reimagined by the Romans, and ultimately transformed during the Norman era of the 11th–12th centuries. Its final grand shape was carved under Frederick II of Hohenstaufen in the 13th century, who fortified it and made it one of the main strongholds of his empire.

Impressive castle

Castello di Lombardia ranks among the largest castles in Italy, originally boasting 20 towers (with six still standing today) and stretching across an impressive 26,000 m². Walking along its ramparts feels like a journey through centuries. Each section of the fortress reveals not just its military might, but also its residential and administrative roles over the ages. Climbing the Torre Pisana, which we absolutely couldn’t miss, rewarded us with one of the most breathtaking panoramic views on the entire island.

Just a few steps from the castle lies the Sanctuary of the goddess Demeter — Enna’s oldest sacred site, steeped in layers of ancient reverence. According to Greek mythology, this was believed to be Demeter’s dwelling place, the divine guardian of harvest and fertility. Nearby Lake Pergusa carries the weight of an even more haunting tale. It’s here, legend says, that Hades abducted Persephone, tearing open the earth and spiriting her away to the underworld.

Set on a rocky terrace just beneath the castle hill, the sanctuary you see today dates back to the Archaic period (7th–6th century BC). Though only foundation stones remain, the place radiates a powerful, almost sacred atmosphere. The valley views, elevated position, and profound stillness imbue the site with a spiritual resonance that lingers even in silence. Archaeologists believe that this was once the setting for fertility and harvest rituals, closely tied to the agrarian cycles that defined life in ancient times.

Enna Autodrome: Racing track by the lake

Just a few steps from Lake Pergusa lies the renowned Autodromo di Pergusa, the only permanent racing circuit in Sicily. Encircling the lake itself, this historic track stands among Italy’s oldest autodromes, hosting prestigious car and motorcycle races since its inauguration in 1951.

You might be lucky enough to catch a sports car training session, just like we did. Chiara was completely captivated at the viewing area, mesmerised by the “Ferrari car” that stole her attention. Even years later, Formula racing remains a must, and she insists on posing with every Ferrari she comes across 😊. One great perk? Viewing spots are free, letting you soak up the excitement without spending a cent.

Admission and practical information

Entry to Enna and Castello di Lombardia is completely free, making it an accessible destination for all visitors. Exploring the castle on a bright, sunny day is highly recommended. As the surrounding views are at their most spectacular when bathed in golden light. We arrived just as the sun was setting, and while the atmosphere was undeniably beautiful, we didn’t get to enjoy the panoramic scenery from the lookout point fully.

Access to Lake Pergusa is also free, as it lies within a protected nature reserve. Visitors can enjoy a scenic circular trail around the lake, stretching approximately 4.8 km. For those seeking expert insights or a guided tour, the tourist centre in Enna is a great resource. They’ll gladly provide recommendations to enhance your experience.

The most convenient route to Enna starts from Catania, the closest major city with an airport. Covering approximately 85 km, the drive takes around 1 hour and 30 minutes. Follow the A19 highway toward Palermo, then take the Enna exit, continuing along SS117bis, which leads directly to the heart of the city.

For travellers without a car, bus connections from Catania provide a convenient alternative. The journey takes approximately 2 hours, with several departures daily. From Enna’s bus station, reaching Lake Pergusa is straightforward. Either by local transport or taxi, as the lake sits just 7 km away.

The story of Persephone’s abduction

At the edge of a flower-filled meadow by Lake Pergusa, a young girl named Persephone played joyfully with her friends. As the daughter of the mighty harvest goddess, Demeter, she adored flowers, greenery, and all that flourished under the sun’s golden light. Her laughter echoed across the fields as she gathered a bouquet of blossoms, each one more beautiful than the last.

One day, as Persephone picked flowers in the meadow, the ground beneath her suddenly split open.
From the darkness emerged a black chariot, pulled by wild, untamed horses. At its helm sat Hades, god of the underworld, his presence as shadowed and formidable as the depths he ruled.

Hades, captivated by Persephone’s beauty, seized her firmly by the wrist and pulled her onto his chariot. She let out a brief cry, but the thunderous roar of the racing wheels swallowed her voice. With a sharp flick of the reins, the black chariot, drawn by wild, relentless horses, rushed across the land, tearing through fields and hills as Persephone desperately looked around, calling for help. Then, once more, the earth opened, and the chariot plunged into the realm of the dead, vanishing into the underworld’s depths.

The Sorrow of Demeter

Demeter sensed that something was terribly wrong. Returning to the place where she had last seen her daughter, she found only scattered flowers, their petals torn and trampled. Despair crept into her heart, as no one could tell her where Persephone had gone. Determined to find her child, Demeter searched the entire world — climbing mountains, crossing valleys, following rivers to the sea. Day and night, she called her daughter’s name, but the silence stretched on, without answer.

At last, Demeter learned the truth from Helios, the god of the sun, the only one who had witnessed what had happened. He told her that Hades had taken Persephone to the underworld. Consumed by rage and grief, Demeter abandoned her duties as the goddess of harvest. The earth ceased to bear fruit, plants withered, and a deep winter spread across the world, plunging everything into lifeless silence.

The Underworld and Rescue

In the underworld, Persephone felt alone. Hades tried to comfort her with jewels and fine garments, but nothing could lift her spirits. Her thoughts drifted to her mother, the meadows, and the fragrance of flowers she longed to see again. Finally, Hades offered her a pomegranate, and unaware of its significance, Persephone ate a few seeds, unknowingly sealing her fate.

Seeing the world engulfed in eternal winter, Zeus, the supreme god, knew he had to intervene. He sent Hermes, his swift messenger, to the underworld to negotiate with Hades. The ruler of the dead agreed to release Persephone, yet there was an unbreakable law. Because she had tasted the food of the underworld, it had become part of her, binding her to the realm below.

Zeus decreed that Persephone would spend part of the year with her mother on earth and part of the year with Hades in the underworld. Each time she returned to the surface, the world awakened. Flowers bloomed, the sun warmed the land, and fields turned green. Spring arrived. Yet when she had to descend once more into the underworld, Demeter mourned, and the earth fell into a deep winter slumber.

So unfolds the eternal cycle of nature — spring heralds Persephone’s return, while winter marks her descent once more. She stands as a symbol of renewal and life, but also of the inevitability of change and the rhythm of the seasons.