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Comuna 13: from a dark past to a colorful present
Comuna 13 is one of the most famous neighborhoods in Medellin. In the past, it was a synonym for violence and the drug war. It used to be one of the most dangerous parts of the city, where battles for power took place every single day and residents lived in constant fear. Even today, as you walk through its streets, you still notice countless bullet holes along with graffiti calling for peace.
To better understand the history of the place, we joined a local guide through Guruwalk, someone who was born in the neighborhood and has lived there his entire life. Another option is to book a tour through GetYourGuide. We definitely do not recommend going on your own, since in this neighborhood everything carries its own meaning that you would otherwise miss. At the end of the tour, you pay the guide what you feel is fair. Most people in our group gave around 10 € per person.
First steps into the neighborhood
When we got off and started walking through the narrow streets, we were struck by the lively atmosphere. Music was playing from every direction, filling the air with energy. As we passed by, we saw young dancers practicing their choreography right there on the street, and they were honestly amazing.
A little later we found ourselves at a football field where kids were training on their own, holding on to the hope of a better future. Katya immediately joined the boys and stunned them with her shots. Afterwards, they did not want to let her go and kept asking her to stay with them.
Football was also Pablo’s sport, and he supported several local teams, though the most famous connection was with Atlético Nacional. In the 1980s the club rose to fame not only in Colombia but also on the international stage, largely thanks to money coming from the drug trade. Escobar built football fields for the poor, financed youth teams, and for many people in Medellin this made him seem like a “benefactor.” Football was his way of winning sympathy in the city’s poorest neighborhoods. Our guide also told us the tragic story of how one player was murdered by the cartel after scoring an own goal at the World Cup.
Graffiti – the voice of the street
What impressed us the most was the street art. The graffiti in Comuna 13 are not just random paintings but carefully thought‑out works that carry deep messages. Everything is covered in color. Not only the buildings but even the stairways.
Each mural tells the story of the community. Beginning with the pain it has endured and moving toward the hope that now drives it forward. Moreover, our guide explained the meaning behind the symbols, from memories of the victims of violence to celebrations of freedom and peace. Even if you were here without a guide, you would still feel the power of these images. However, with the explanations they gained an entirely new dimension for us.
Such as the depiction of Operation Orion and the reference to a fatal mistake by the police. 16. On October 16 and 17, 2002, the Colombian army and police carried out a large-scale military operation in the neighborhoods of Comuna 13. Which at the time were under the control of various armed groups including FARC, ELN, and paramilitary forces such as the AUC. The operation took place under a declared state of emergency and involved the use of tanks, helicopters, and heavy infantry.
Not all graffiti has a deep story behind it. Some are just funny, but the fact is that you will find thousands of them here.
The stairs that changed lives
One of the most famous symbols of Comuna 13 is the set of outdoor escalators that were built here a few years ago. At first, it is hard to imagine what life was like before them, in a neighborhood spread across a steep hillside where residents had to climb hundreds of steps every single day just to reach work or for children to get to school. Eventually, the escalators solved this exhausting challenge and made an enormous difference for the community. As a result, daily life became easier, the neighborhood opened up to visitors. And in the end the escalators even turned into a tourist attraction in their own right.
Make sure to try not only the ride on the escalators but also the stairs right beside them. When we walked all the way up to the very top, we honestly thought we would run out of breath. Because of the tropical humidity and the higher temperature, our energy quickly faded. And we could feel on our own skin just how much the escalators have changed life in this neighborhood.
Above the stairs the path continues even higher, and there they cleverly built a slide right next to the steps. Of course we could not resist and had to try this little attraction as well.
Open galleries – art right on the street
Comuna 13 can proudly show off its open-air galleries that quite literally come alive under the sky. These are not the kind of traditional museums where you look at paintings through glass. Instead, the artworks are woven directly into the fabric of the neighborhood itself.
In the galleries you come across paintings that capture everyday life in the community, the history of the neighborhood, and its colorful present. Some works focus on strong social messages, while others feel playful or even experimental.
The best part is that entry is completely free, since the artists want their work to reach everyone without barriers. As you wander through the galleries, the neighborhood reveals yet another dimension of itself. Comuna 13 is no longer only a place marked by history and street art. It has also become a living center of culture and creativity that continues to grow among the people.
The paintings carry an extraordinary depth, blending the darkness of the community’s past with the hope that continues to guide its people forward.
Chota13 – celebrity bar
In the heart of Comuna 13 we came across Chota13. A bar that is much more than just a place to relax and have a drink. At the same time, it serves as a small gallery and a living testimony to the neighborhood’s history. What draws the most attention, however, is the celebrity wall of fame displaying photographs of well‑known figures who have visited Comuna 13. Among these visitors, former U.S. president Bill Clinton stands out. And his presence has come to symbolize the positive transformation of this once dangerous district.
The name of the bar refers to the artistic name Chota13, also known as John Alexander Serna. One of the most important graffiti artists from Comuna 13. His works, including a mural that recalls Operation Orión, are well known throughout Medellín. And stand as a symbol of the community’s resilience, creativity, and hope.
Miradors and iconic sculptures – a view of the neighborhood from above
After walking through the galleries we climbed up to several miradores that offered sweeping panoramic views of both Comuna 13 and the rest of Medellin. From these vantage points history meets modern culture in a striking way. In addition to the breathtaking views, the spots are decorated with iconic inscriptions and sculptures that have become lasting symbols of the neighborhood.
Besides the statue of Christ, reminiscent of the one in Rio, you will also find several paid viewpoints here. The price depends on which lookout you choose. Some cost 2 €, others 3 €, and the fee usually includes a photo session as well. This way the visit is not only about enjoying the panoramic views, but also about taking home a tangible memory of the experience.
Besides the statue of Christ, you will also come across a cheeky little monkey figure, a small amusement park, and a pair of giant wings that have become one of the most photographed spots in the area.
All across Comuna 13 you come across different inscriptions and slogans that reflect the history and values of the community. One of the most striking is the phrase “Medellín es una chimba,” an expression of pride and love for the city. Yet, as our guide pointed out, the word
Poverty, violence, and the struggle for children’s future
For many years Comuna 13 was a byword for extreme poverty and violence. Children grew up on streets where gangs, guns, and drugs were part of the daily scenery. Life itself meant living in constant fear, whether from the sound of gunfire during armed clashes or the intimidation carried out by local gangs. Because of that, many young people saw no real way out. And some were pulled into crime even before they reached adulthood.
The transformation of the neighborhood began slowly, through community projects and educational programs. Step by step, local organizations, volunteers, and artists joined forces to create safe spaces for children. From football fields to dance and music workshops to graffiti classes. Today these activities offer a real alternative, helping young people turn away from violence and crime, giving them a sense of purpose, and nurturing a new pride in their community.
Foreign teachers even come here to give children free language lessons. Adding another layer of opportunity to the community. What has remained is the strong sense of togetherness, yet the atmosphere has shifted. Violence is slowly giving way to laughter, creativity, and the simple joy of everyday life.
Comuna 13 has become a place where the past meets hope. Streets that once echoed with gunfire and fear are now alive with children’s laughter, music, and the vibrant colors of street art. In spite of everything the neighborhood has endured. The community continues to fight so that no child has to grow up on the streets without a future. And so that its dark history can be transformed into a story of resilience and renewal.
Practical information
👨🏫 Guide: We recommend joining a guided tour, for example through GuruWalk. Locals know the history and the symbolism behind the graffiti, details that would easily slip past you if you explored on your own.
🛡️ Safety: The neighborhood is safe for visitors today, although it’s still not a good idea to wander around at night. After spending two hours with our guide, we explored the area on our own in more detail and felt completely at ease the whole time.
⏱️ Time for visit: A guided tour usually takes around three hours. If you want to climb all the way up to the miradores and really enjoy the views and attractions, set aside at least half a day, and ideally give yourself the whole day.
🎨 Atmosphere: The streets are bursting with street art, music, and dance. What makes the experience truly unforgettable is the mix of colorful graffiti, the outdoor escalators, and the open‑air galleries that bring the whole neighborhood to life.
💵 Price: Tours usually work on a free walking tour basis, where you tip the guide at the end according to what you feel is fair, most often around 10 €. Another option is to book through GetYourGuide, which typically costs about 15 €.
🥤 Tip: If local kids ask you for water or chocolate, don’t give them money. What they really want is the treat or the drink itself. Our guide explained that if we wanted to, we could simply buy them a snack, and the children were genuinely happy to receive it.
What else to see in Medellin?
Downtown and Plaza Botero – the heart of Medellín, where you will find 23 monumental sculptures by Fernando Botero. Around the square, you will find the Museo de Antioquia and historic buildings that are worth visiting.
The Pablo Escobar Museum – is a place where you can learn more about the life of one of the world’s most infamous drug lords. A visit here is controversial, since the museum is run by his nephew. For that reason, we recommend heading instead to the Escobar Museum in the Barrio Pablo neighborhood, which offers a more balanced perspective.
Barrio Pablo Escobar – is a neighborhood that Pablo had built for poor families, and to this day many people still live there thanks to the housing they received. You will also find a small museum here, which feels far more authentic and closely tied to the everyday reality of the community.
La Catedral – was the luxurious prison that Pablo Escobar built for himself high in the hills above Medellin. The place is closely tied to his life and eventual escape, and today it stands as a powerful reminder of the city’s turbulent past.
Metrocable and views – a ride on the cable car offers a unique view of the entire city and takes you out into nature.
🌆 Pueblito Paisa – a small replica of a traditional village on Cerro Nutibara hill with panoramic views of Medellín. Most beautiful at sunset.
📜 Museo Casa de la Memoria – a museum dedicated to the victims of violence and armed conflict. A powerful and emotional place that helps visitors understand Medellín’s recent past.
🌳 Jardín Botánico – a botanical garden with tropical plants, a huge greenhouse, and a place to relax. Cultural events are often held here.
Where to stay?
Staying in Medellín:
If you are planning to take trips outside Medellín ( Guatapé, La Catedral, or the surrounding nature), it is best to choose accommodation from which the trips are relatively short. This way, transportation remains safe and convenient. Moreover, you will still have easy access to restaurants, grocery stores, and services.
Choose a place that is close to the highway or a good road leading toward popular trips such as Guatapé or La Catedral. In this regard, Poblado has clear advantages, since trips to the surrounding areas are much more convenient and you are closer to the main routes. Furthermore, if you are planning to rent a car, it is wiser to select a hotel that offers parking or at least a secure parking space.
Laureles / Laureles-Estadio
- Fewer tourists than in Poblado, a calmer atmosphere, more places with a local vibe, restaurants, cafés, and friendly prices.
- An advantage if you do not want to be in the middle of the nightlife, yet still have everything within easy reach.
- Check out the available hotels here: accommodation Laureles
- We stayed at the Hotel San Pedro del Fuerte, and even though it was further away from the city, the hotel was great, especially the restaurant, where they made all kinds of dishes from avocados.
