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Cartagena — a historic gem that left us disappointed
Cartagena is one of the most famous cities in Colombia. People often describe it as a romantic colonial town with colorful facades, narrow streets and a rich history. When we arrived, we were hoping for an atmosphere similar to Willemstad or Cali. At first, we imagined slow walks through the historic center, moments by the sea and maybe even a touch of Caribbean calm. In the end, the reality felt different and we left with mixed feelings.
What to see in Cartagena?
The historic center and the city walls
The biggest pride of Cartagena is its old town, surrounded by massive walls built in the days when the city faced pirate attacks. The walls are well preserved and you can walk along them with views of the sea and the streets below. From the top, you see colorful houses, narrow lanes and horse‑drawn carriages taking tourists around. At first, the atmosphere feels charming, but after a few minutes we realized it’s a very touristy place where prices climb high and vendors are relentless.
Plaza Santo Domingo
The square filled with restaurants and cafés invites you to sit down in the shade of large umbrellas. In the middle, you’ll find a well‑known sculpture by Botero — a reclining woman that, according to local legend, brings luck if you touch it. At first, we stopped here only for a moment, because after a few minutes street vendors and guides started sticking to us. And in the end they didn’t stop offering their services.
The Santa Catalina de Alejandría Cathedral
Standing among the city’s main symbols, the cathedral rises with a massive tower visible from far away. Inside, the design is simpler, yet its historical value is significant. In the evening, we came here to see its charm when it lights up in different colors, especially during Christmas.
Convento de la Popa
Perched on a hill above the city, the monastery offers a panoramic view of all of Cartagena, the coastline and the surrounding area. You can reach it by taxi or as part of an organized tour. The view is worth it, but once again you run into the same reality as in the center. Everything is focused on making quick money from tourists.
Castillo San Felipe de Barajas
Built to defend the city from pirates and enemy ships, this massive fortress still feels impressive as you walk through its corridors, guard towers and tunnels. Early in the morning, the visit is genuinely pleasant. But as the day goes on the crowds grow and the heat becomes unbearable.
You shouldn’t miss the famous shoe statue located right next to the fortress. It’s a work by Héctor Lombana Pineres, created as a tribute to the poem “A mi Ciudad Nativa” by Colombian poet Luis Carlos López. In the poem, the author compares his love for Cartagena to the affection one feels for old, comfortable shoes. A symbol of home and deep attachment.
Poverty beyond the walls and the contrast with the tourist center
If you walk just a few streets beyond the walls, you suddenly find yourself in a completely different world. While the historic center shines with color and cleanliness. The neighborhoods behind the walls are filled with crumbling houses, dusty roads and poverty that sharply contrasts with the luxury of hotels and restaurants only a few hundred meters away. We felt this contrast very strongly, and even though poverty is a reality in many parts of Colombia. Here it was visible in direct contact with the tourist zone.
Out of all the places we visited in Colombia, Cartagena was where we felt the most like walking wallets. Vendors, masseurs, guides and sellers of hats, bracelets or drinks approached us at every step. Some did it kindly, while others were uncomfortably persistent. Even though we understand that tourism is the only source of income for many people here, the constant pressure really spoils the atmosphere.
Problems you should be prepared for
Cartagena can surprise you with a few practical problems as well. During our stay, some streets flooded even though it was the dry season. Several roads in the center became completely impassable and water reached the squares too. Locals say it’s caused by an old drainage system that collapses even after a small amount of rain.
During the three days we spent here, the streets of Cartagena were flooded every single day. On the last two days, the water rose so much that it became impossible to enter or leave the historic center. We even saw videos showing a meter of water on the main square, leaving tourists trapped inside their hotels. Because of that, we had to change our plans. Since apart from a short walk through the center on New Year’s Eve, we couldn’t get beyond the walls anymore. Fortunately, we had already decided to stay on Barú Island on our return to Cartagena, in a hotel with a private beach. So we could avoid the pressures we experienced on Playa Blanca and the city beach.
Where to go for a trip in the surrounding area
Islas del Rosario
A chain of small islands in the Caribbean Sea is known for its crystal‑clear water and white sand. You can get there by boat from the port in Cartagena. Most trips include snorkeling and lunch on the beach. If you’re looking for peace, avoid the main islands on weekends, when they fill up with local tourists. Be careful with the operator, though. As most tours are a scam, and in reality you end up paying much more. Or they drop you off at a “family spot” where you’re charged 50 € for a sunbed.
Playa Blanca
One of the most famous beaches in the area looks stunning in photos, with sandy shores and turquoise water, but the reality during the day is busy and loud. That’s not even the biggest issue, though. We were approached constantly, and many people tried to scam us. Even on the way there, we had to pay for a “guide,” and the prices for sunbeds and drinks were outrageous. A masseuse never returned with the change, and around us people were paying hundreds of dollars because they left open tabs at bars that charged them for things they never had. If you plan to visit, you really need to be extremely careful.
Trip to Tayrona
If you’re planning to visit Tayrona National Park from Cartagena, prepare for a longer but beautiful journey along the Caribbean coast. Traveling by car or minivan takes around 5 to 6 hours. With the fastest route leading through Barranquilla and Santa Marta. Most travelers choose a shared minibus transfer that leaves Cartagena’s center early in the morning and takes you directly to the El Zaino entrance gate.
Tayrona can be visited as a one‑day organized trip, but if you truly want to experience the park, we recommend staying at least four nights.
Read more in our article: Tayrona
Private hotel beaches
If you’re looking for more peace, staying at a hotel with a private beach outside the busy center is the ideal solution. We chose Mangrove Beach Hotel, set in a quieter area with its own stretch of sand, offering a break from the constant noise of the city. This was where we finally enjoyed the Caribbean the way we had imagined it. With palm trees, soft sand and the gentle sound of waves. However, we weren’t entirely satisfied, as the hotel tried to charge us for expenses we never made.
An even better option is the Decameron Barú hotel, but it was far too expensive for us, or Aqua Azul, which has a beautiful sandy beach.
Where to stay in Cartagena?
Cartagena is one of the most developed parts of Colombia, so you will find plenty of great places to stay. Whether you want luxury or comfort, Cartagena will not disappoint you.
If you are looking for a true beach paradise and complete peace, consider staying on Barú Island, but only at Hotel Agua Azul or Hotel Decameron. It felt expensive to us, so we started looking for a cheaper alternative to extend our stay in Cartagena. And we ended up regretting it. Even our accommodation on Barú Island tried to charge us for things we never ordered. Even though it was also a resort with a private beach.
Playa Blanca has plenty of hostels where you can stay, but for us it’s not worth the risk. If you’re looking for budget‑friendly accommodation, stay in Cartagena.
In Cartagena you can choose from many hotels in different price ranges.
The cheapest places to stay are located outside the city walls. These neighborhoods are not as safe and you will not be able to walk around. If you want to avoid overpaying for accommodation, choose a place just outside the walls in the historic center.
Budget friendly – simple and cozy
For those on a limited budget, good options on Booking include Casa Movida Hostel, which offers a garden, a terrace and reasonable prices starting at around 10 USD per night. If you’re looking for great private stays with strong reviews and a good location, both Hostal Casa Torres Centro Histórico – Adults Only and Balcones de Venecia are solid options.
Affordable places to stay here: Budget‑friendly
Mid‑range category: comfort and views
If you want comfort, we recommend Hotel Don Pedro De Heredia, which we also visited ourselves. The hotel offered spacious, beautiful rooms and a rooftop terrace. The kids really enjoyed the pool.
The second alternative we considered was Hotel Casa Tere. It also offers beautiful rooms, a pool and great breakfast
Here you can find a selection of comfortable hotels: Mid‑range accommodation.
Luxury accommodation
If you are looking for something special, consider the hotel Casa del Gobernador. It feels like a place from a fairy tale and it has very positive reviews.
Another option is Hotel Boutique Casa Del Arzobispado, which offers plenty of greenery and feels like a peaceful oasis. A perfect escape from the busy city.
🍸 Check out the selection of premium hotels here: luxury hotels
